Skin science article
Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hyaluronic Marine Oil-Free Moisture Cushion
Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hyaluronic Marine Oil-Free Moisture Cushion This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair moisturizer is for
Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hyaluronic Marine Oil-Free Moisture Cushion
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Sorbate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Cetearyl Alcohol
C13-16 Isoparaffin
Stearyl Dimethicone
Dimethicone
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Behenate
Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract
Saccharide Isomerate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Tocopherol
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
Lactic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Acer Saccharum Extract
Collagen Amino Acids
Adenosine
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Copper PCA
Isohexadecane
Heptyl Undecylenate
Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3
Isododecane
Octadecene
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Sorbitan Oleate
Ceteareth-20
Polysorbate 80
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Stearyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Behenate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Collagen Amino Acids, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Copper PCA, Isohexadecane, Heptyl Undecylenate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Isododecane, Octadecene, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Oleate, Ceteareth-20, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.
Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.
This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.
Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!