Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum Versus SkinCeuticals C + AHA

Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum Versus SkinCeuticals C + AHA

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This smoothing serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sorbate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Water, Butylene Glycol, Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Ascorbic Acid

Triethanolamine

Glycolic Acid

Propylene Glycol

Glycerin

Citric Acid

Lactic Acid

Zinc Sulfate

Disodium EDTA

Water, Ascorbic Acid, Triethanolamine, Glycolic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Zinc Sulfate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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