Skin science article
Dr. Barbara Sturm Molecular Hair And Scalp Anti-Hair Fall Hair And Scalp Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density
Dr. Barbara Sturm Molecular Hair And Scalp Anti-Hair Fall Hair And Scalp Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns No concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Glycerin Maltodextrin Xanthan Gum
Dr. Barbara Sturm Molecular Hair And Scalp Anti-Hair Fall Hair And Scalp Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Maltodextrin
Xanthan Gum
Panthenol
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract
Glycine
Larix Europaea Wood Extract
Sodium Metabisulfite
Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Zinc Chloride
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Water, Glycerin, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract, Glycine, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Sodium Metabisulfite, Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Zinc Chloride, Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Caffeine
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Pisum Sativum Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Glycine Soja Germ Extract
Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
Apigenin
Oleanolic Acid
Arginine
Calcium Gluconate
Lactic Acid
Gluconolactone
Dextran
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Pentylene Glycol
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Polysorbate 20
PPG-26-Buteth-26
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caffeine, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Glycine Soja Germ Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Apigenin, Oleanolic Acid, Arginine, Glycine, Calcium Gluconate, Zinc Chloride, Lactic Acid, Gluconolactone, Dextran, Maltodextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polysorbate 20, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Larix Europaea is a larch tree native to Europe.
It’s one of the key ingredients in Redensyl, an alternative to Minoxidil for hair growth. Redensyl works by targeting stem cells and fibroblasts from the top, inner layer of your skin.
The bark of Larix Europaea is rich in antioxidants and plant compounds such as flavonoids, spiro-polyphenols, and procyanidins.
Flavonoids are naturally occurring compounds found in many plantsand foods like tea, wine, and chocolate. They’re known for their strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium metabisulfite is also known as Sodium Pyrosulfite. It is a preservative, antioxidant, and disinfectant.
As a preservative, it helps stabilize cosmetic formulas without affecting their color or scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Zinc chloride is a white crystalline compound. You'll most likely see it in personal care products such as mouthwashes, skincare, hair conditioners, and bath products.