Skin science article
Dr.Ceuracle Cica Regen Waterproof Sun SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+
Dr.Ceuracle Cica Regen Waterproof Sun SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients S
Dr.Ceuracle Cica Regen Waterproof Sun SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Niacinamide
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylyl Methicone
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Xanthan Gum
T-Butyl Alcohol
Inositol
Tocopherol
Panthenol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Glucoside
Saccharide Isomerate
Dipropylene Glycol
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Water
Bambusa Vulgaris Shoot Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract
Angelica Keiskei Extract
Corchorus Olitorius Leaf Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Mentha Aquatica Extract
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Niacinamide, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Inositol, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Glucoside, Saccharide Isomerate, Dipropylene Glycol, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Bambusa Vulgaris Shoot Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Angelica Keiskei Extract, Corchorus Olitorius Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Mentha Aquatica Extract, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate
Oryza Sativa Seed Water
Butyloctyl Salicylate
1,2-Hexanediol
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
Silica
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Methylpropanediol
Polyether-1
Polyquaternium-51
Beta-Glucan
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Ferulic Acid
Ceramide NP
Phytosphingosine
Rice Amino Acids
Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Caprylyl Methicone, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Propanediol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Polyether-1, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Inositol, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Rice Amino Acids, Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.
You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.
This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.
In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.
Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Drometrizole Trisiloxane is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that L'oreal patented back in 1989.
Its offers broad-spectrum protection against UVB and UVA with two peaks: 303nm in the UVB range and 344 nm in the UVA range.
The standout trait is photostability. Unlike other UV filters, this one doesn't break down when exposed to sunlight.
You'll likely see it paired with Mexoryl SX (Ecamsule) because the two filters show a synergistic effect where the combined protection is greater than the sum of the individual filters.
Because it is oil soluble, it's great for water-resistant/sport/beach sunscreens.
Concentration-wise, the EU permits up to 15% but formulas use it well below that ceiling and almost never as a solo active.
It has a pretty solid safety record: allergic reactions are considered rare, its large molecule size means little to no absorption through skin, and toxicology reviews found no significant toxicity.
Just so you know, there were a handful of isolated allergic contact dermatitis case reports (which is true of every UV filter), but most people will not react to it.
This ingredient is available in the EU, Canada, Australia, and Japan, but not the US. This is just because the manufacturer hasn't pushed the data through the FDA's OTC ingredient pathway.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Inositol is a sugar alcohol naturally found in the human body. Our bodies use this ingredient in the process of growing new cells.
Studies show inositol to be a key component for keratinocyte growth.
Keratinocytes make up the majority of the outermost layer of skin. These cells protect our skin from UV exposure, infection, and help keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient is also considered a humectant. Humectants help hydrate the skin by drawing moisture to it.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate is a synthetic polymer. It's a long chain built from acrylic acid units and each unit carries a fatty "tail" derived form a C10-30 alcohol.
Those oil-loving tails allow this ingredient to thicken oil phases, hold emulsions together, and cuts the tacky/greasy feel of heavy formulas.
Typical use levels sit around 0.1-3%, with 0.3-3% more common in leave-on emulsions.
This ingredient was reviewed as part of a group of 126 acrylates and concluded to be safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel.
Though acrylate contact allergy is real and well-documented, allergy risk is quite low. The cases of documented contact allergy are caused by unreacted monomers (more commonly found in gel nails, dental resins, and adhesives).
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.