Dr. Denese SkinScience Firming Facial Collagen Night Serum Versus Dr. Barbara Sturm Glow Drops

Dr. Denese SkinScience Firming Facial Collagen Night Serum Versus Dr. Barbara Sturm Glow Drops

This smoothing serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Squalane to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil to hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycolic Acid

Propanediol

Squalane

Avena Sativa Kernel Flour

Dimethicone

Sodium Hydroxide

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Butylene Glycol

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Soluble Collagen

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Acer Saccharum Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Bud Extract

Foeniculum Vulgare Fruit Extract

Humulus Lupulus Extract

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

Viscum Album Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Urea

Allantoin

Glycine Soja Sterols

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate

Hydroxypropyl Bislauramide Mea

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Alcohol

Phytosterols

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-20 Soy Sterol

Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone

Tocopheryl Acetate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Panthenol

Disodium EDTA

Xanthan Gum

Sclerotium Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Parfum

Water, Glycolic Acid, Propanediol, Squalane, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Dimethicone, Sodium Hydroxide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Bud Extract, Foeniculum Vulgare Fruit Extract, Humulus Lupulus Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Viscum Album Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Urea, Allantoin, Glycine Soja Sterols, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Hydroxypropyl Bislauramide Mea, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Alcohol, Phytosterols, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Soy Sterol, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Panthenol, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glycerin

Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract

Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Stearic Acid

Carbomer

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

Mica

Hexylene Glycol

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Pantolactone

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Citric Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Alumina

Tin Oxide

CI 77491

CI 77891

Water, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Mica, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Pantolactone, Xanthan Gum, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Alumina, Tin Oxide, CI 77491, CI 77891

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.

In formulas, it:

Is it bad for your skin?

The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.

Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.

In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.

This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.

Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).

Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.

According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.

True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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