Dr. Denese SkinScience Hydroshield Pro Strength Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol

Dr. Denese SkinScience Hydroshield Pro Strength Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tocopherol and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Dimethicone

Cyclopentasiloxane

Caprylyl Methicone

Dimethiconol

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Paphiopedilum Maudiae Flower Extract

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Bisabolol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Ethylhexyl Cocoate

Glyceryl Linoleate

Glyceryl Linolenate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Cholesterol

Ceramide NP

Phenoxyethanol

Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Paphiopedilum Maudiae Flower Extract, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholesterol, Ceramide NP, Phenoxyethanol

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Tocopherol

Retinol

Tocotrienols

Adenosine

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract

Stearyl Dimethicone

Astaxanthin

Glycine Soja Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Sd Alcohol 40

Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Bisabolol, Tocotrienols, Adenosine, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Stearyl Dimethicone, Astaxanthin, Glycine Soja Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Sd Alcohol 40

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.

Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.

The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics

There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.

Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.

The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.

THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).

Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.

Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.

Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.

A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).

While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.

THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

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