Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel Versus Hydropeptide 5X Power Peel Daily Resurfacing Pads

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel Versus Hydropeptide 5X Power Peel Daily Resurfacing Pads

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This smoothing treatment pad uses a pre-saturated pad with Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Alcohol Denat.

Glycolic Acid

Potassium Hydroxide

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Salicylic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Citric Acid

Lactic Acid

Malic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Soy Isoflavones

Copper PCA

Zinc PCA

Lecithin

Disodium EDTA

Alcohol

Polysorbate 80

Parfum

Linalool

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzoic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Bicarbonate

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Resveratrol

Ubiquinone

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Phospholipids

Sodium PCA

Dimethicone

PEG-30 Stearate

Octoxynol-9

BHT

Tetrasodium EDTA

Sorbic Acid

Water, Alcohol Denat., Glycolic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Copper PCA, Zinc PCA, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Polysorbate 80, Parfum, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Resveratrol, Ubiquinone, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phospholipids, Sodium PCA, Dimethicone, PEG-30 Stearate, Octoxynol-9, BHT, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Propanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polyglyceryl-3 PCA

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate

Butylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Benzyl Alcohol

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Glucosamine Hcl

Rhodosorus Marinus Extract

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Acer Saccharum Extract

Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Urea

Mucor Miehei Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract

Citrus Tangerina Peel Extract

Barosma Betulina Leaf Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Juniperus Virginiana Wood Extract

Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract

Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Butter Extract

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Coffea Arabica Leaf/Seed Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Allantoin

Niacinamide

Sodium Hyaluronate

Dextran

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Water, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-3 PCA, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Benzyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Copper PCA, Glucosamine Hcl, Rhodosorus Marinus Extract, Salicylic Acid, Citric Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Urea, Mucor Miehei Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract, Citrus Tangerina Peel Extract, Barosma Betulina Leaf Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Juniperus Virginiana Wood Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Butter Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Coffea Arabica Leaf/Seed Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dextran, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

We don't have a description for Copper PCA yet.

Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.

It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.

Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.

AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.

Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.

Overall, glycolic acid helps with:

Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.

To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).

The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:

It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.

Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.

If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.

Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.

Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.

Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.

Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

Like glycolic acid, it can:

Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.

Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.

To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.

Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.

Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.

When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.

Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.

Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.

Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.

This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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