Skin science article
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hyaluronic Marine Oil-Free Moisture Cushion Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hyaluronic Marine Oil-Free Moisture Cushion Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin b
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hyaluronic Marine Oil-Free Moisture Cushion Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
C13-16 Isoparaffin
Stearyl Dimethicone
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Behenate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract
Saccharide Isomerate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Tocopherol
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
Lactic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Acer Saccharum Extract
Collagen Amino Acids
Adenosine
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Copper PCA
Isohexadecane
Heptyl Undecylenate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3
Isododecane
Octadecene
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Sorbitan Oleate
Ceteareth-20
Polysorbate 80
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Stearyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Behenate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Collagen Amino Acids, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Copper PCA, Isohexadecane, Heptyl Undecylenate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Isododecane, Octadecene, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Oleate, Ceteareth-20, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Cocoglycerides
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Squalane
Sodium Polyacrylate
Lecithin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ceramide NP
Retinol
Punica Granatum Extract
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Tocopheryl Acetate
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Propylene Glycol
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Xanthan Gum
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cocoglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Sodium Polyacrylate, Lecithin, Adenosine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Retinol, Punica Granatum Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!