Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Niacinamide

Squalane

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Dimethicone

Sucrose

Pentylene Glycol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Lactic Acid

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Ceramide NP

Saccharide Isomerate

Superoxide Dismutase

Ubiquinone

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Adenosine

Collagen Amino Acids

Hydroxyproline

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Glycolic Acid

Carnitine

Glycine

Carnitine Hcl

Lactobacillus Ferment

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Lecithin

Maltodextrin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Polysorbate 60

Carbomer

Ammonium Hydroxide

Potassium Hydroxide

Sodium Phytate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Triethyl Citrate

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Cananga Odorata Flower Extract

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Rose Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract

Santalum Album Wood Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Squalane, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Dimethicone, Sucrose, Pentylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ceramide NP, Saccharide Isomerate, Superoxide Dismutase, Ubiquinone, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Adenosine, Collagen Amino Acids, Hydroxyproline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycolic Acid, Carnitine, Glycine, Carnitine Hcl, Lactobacillus Ferment, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Ammonium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Triethyl Citrate, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Rose Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Propanediol

Jojoba Esters

Tocopherol

Acetyl Zingerone

Cetyl Palmitate

Cetyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbitan Olivate

Sorbitan Palmitate

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hexylene Glycol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glycine Soja Oil

Lysolecithin

Bacillus Ferment

Citric Acid

Polyglutamic Acid

Beta-Sitosterol

Phytic Acid

Squalene

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Propanediol, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Acetyl Zingerone, Cetyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lecithin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Lysolecithin, Bacillus Ferment, Citric Acid, Polyglutamic Acid, Beta-Sitosterol, Phytic Acid, Squalene, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.

Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:

In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.

The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.

A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.

Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).

Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.

Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.

These compounds protect your skin two ways:

1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin. 2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.

Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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