Dr.G Black Snail Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream

Dr.G Black Snail Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Dipropylene Glycol

Glycerin

Cyclomethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Triethylhexanoin

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Niacinamide

Hydrogen

1,2-Hexanediol

Oak Root Extract

Cetearyl Glucoside

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Muscle Extract

Butter Extract

Portulaca Pilosa Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Indica Leaf Extract

Rosa Indica Flower Extract

Averrhoa Bilimbi Leaf Extract

Citrus Iyo Fruit Extract

Plant Ash Extract

Aloe Vera Callus Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Leaf Extract

Turtle Extract

Coral Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Arachis Hypogaea Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil

Geranium Macrorrhizum Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil

Citrus Iyo Peel Oil

Rose Flower Oil

Citronellal

Santalum Album Oil

Jasminum Officinale Oil

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil

Citrus Limon Leaf Oil

Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil

Rice Ferment Filtrate

Dimethicone

Squalane

Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Oleate

PEG-100 Stearate

2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate

Cellulose

Butylene Glycol

Palmitic Acid

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Betaine

Ethanolamine

Polysorbate 60

Polyquaternium-51

Glycosyl Trehalose

Isononyl Isononanoate

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Cellulose Gum

Triticum Vulgare Starch

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Raffinose

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Stearic Acid

Adenosine

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Beta-Glucan

Disodium EDTA

Lecithin

Sucrose

Caramel

Panthenol

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Lauryl Acrylate

Propylene Glycol

Titanium Dioxide

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Tromethamine

Folic Acid

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Arabinose

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Ceramide NP

Cholesterol

Xanthan Gum

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Alumina

Pearl Powder

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Parfum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Benzyl Salicylate

Limonene

Geraniol

Hydroxycitronellal

Linalool

Water, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclomethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Hydrogen, 1,2-Hexanediol, Oak Root Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Muscle Extract, Butter Extract, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Indica Leaf Extract, Rosa Indica Flower Extract, Averrhoa Bilimbi Leaf Extract, Citrus Iyo Fruit Extract, Plant Ash Extract, Aloe Vera Callus Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Leaf Extract, Turtle Extract, Coral Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil, Geranium Macrorrhizum Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil, Citrus Iyo Peel Oil, Rose Flower Oil, Citronellal, Santalum Album Oil, Jasminum Officinale Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil, Citrus Limon Leaf Oil, Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil, Rice Ferment Filtrate, Dimethicone, Squalane, Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Oleate, PEG-100 Stearate, 2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate, Cellulose, Butylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Betaine, Ethanolamine, Polysorbate 60, Polyquaternium-51, Glycosyl Trehalose, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cellulose Gum, Triticum Vulgare Starch, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Stearic Acid, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Beta-Glucan, Disodium EDTA, Lecithin, Sucrose, Caramel, Panthenol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Lauryl Acrylate, Propylene Glycol, Titanium Dioxide, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Tromethamine, Folic Acid, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Arabinose, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Alumina, Pearl Powder, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool

Oryza Sativa Bran Water

Panax Ginseng Root Water

Propanediol

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Sorbitan Olivate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Coconut Oil

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Honey Extract

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Dextrin

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Water, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Glycerin, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Honey Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Dextrin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic emollient. It forms a non-occlusive film on the skin's surface to provide a silky feel without being greasy.

In vivo studies in volunteers with atopic and dry skin showed no irritation or intolerance. The volunteers also saw a positive effect in dryness, scaling, and roughness after 28 days of use.

Concentrations up to 100% in guinea pig tests found it to be non-sensitizing and completely safe for use in cosmetics.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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