Skin science article
Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin™ Skin Barrier Moisturizing Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream
Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin™ Skin Barrier Moisturizing Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moistur
Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin™ Skin Barrier Moisturizing Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dipropylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Methyl Trimethicone
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
1,2-Hexanediol
Phenyl Trimethicone
Dicaprylyl Ether
Cetearyl Olivate
Panthenol
Glyceryl Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Sorbitan Olivate
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
2,3-Butanediol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Ceramide NP
Ceramide Ng
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide As
Ceramide AP
Cholesterol
Pentaerythrityl Distearate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cellulose Gum
Dextrin
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Salvia Officinalis Oil
Citronellol
Tocopherol
CI 19140
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Methyl Trimethicone, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dicaprylyl Ether, Cetearyl Olivate, Panthenol, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, 2,3-Butanediol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cellulose Gum, Dextrin, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Citronellol, Tocopherol, CI 19140
Propanediol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Oxygen
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Colloidal Oatmeal
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Polyglucuronic Acid
Cetyl Alcohol
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Polypropylene
Polysorbate 80
Steareth-30
Lecithin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Phenoxyethanol
Perfluorohexane
Chlorphenesin
Perfluoromethylcyclopentane
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Oxygen, Ceramide Ng, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Colloidal Oatmeal, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol, Polyglucuronic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polypropylene, Polysorbate 80, Steareth-30, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Perfluorohexane, Chlorphenesin, Perfluoromethylcyclopentane, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ceramide NG is a type of Ceramide. The NG stands for a sphinganine base.
Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.
Ceramides are an important building block for our skin barrier. A stronger barrier helps the skin look more firm and hydrated. By bolstering the skin ceramides act as a barrier against irritating ingredients. This can help with inflammation as well.
If you would like to eat ceramides, sweet potatoes contain a small amount.
Read more about other common types of ceramides here: Ceramide AP Ceramide EOP Ceramide NP
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!