Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Intensive Soothing Repair Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Intensive Soothing Repair Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol This calming serum is formulated around Allantoin and Asiaticoside to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming serum is formulated

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Intensive Soothing Repair Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol

This calming serum is formulated around Allantoin and Asiaticoside to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Methyl Gluceth-20

Ethoxydiglycol

Betaine

Allantoin

Octyldodecanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Asiaticoside

Madecassic Acid

Glycolipids

Asiatic Acid

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

1,2-Hexanediol

Isopentyldiol

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

C12-13 Alketh-9

Sodium Surfactin

Dextran

CI 19140

CI 42090

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ethoxydiglycol, Betaine, Allantoin, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Glycolipids, Asiatic Acid, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, 1,2-Hexanediol, Isopentyldiol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C12-13 Alketh-9, Sodium Surfactin, Dextran, CI 19140, CI 42090

Panthenol

Methylpropanediol

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Polyquaternium-51

Malt Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Water, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Malt Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water
  2. 02Water
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Butylene Glycol
  5. 05Propanediol
  6. 061,2-Hexanediol
  7. 07Betaine
  8. 08Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract
  9. 09Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract
  10. 10Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract
  11. 11Glyceryl Glucoside
  12. 12Xylitylglucoside
  13. 13Anhydroxylitol
  14. 14Xylitol
  15. 15Glucose
  16. 16Allantoin
  17. 17Juniperus Mexicana Oil
  18. 18Sodium Hyaluronate
  19. 19Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
  20. 20Cynanchum Atratum Extract
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Beauty of Joseon Repair Serum

Beauty of Joseon Repair Serum Beauty of Joseon Repair Serum ingredients explained: Panax Ginseng Root Water (63%), Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Snail Secretion Filtrate (3%), Dipropylen…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side