Skin science article
Dr. Jart+ Peptidin™ Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides Versus Dr. Jart+ V7™ Antioxidant Serum
Dr. Jart+ Peptidin™ Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides Versus Dr. Jart+ V7™ Antioxidant Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening seru
Dr. Jart+ Peptidin™ Radiance Serum with Energy Peptides Versus Dr. Jart+ V7™ Antioxidant Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening serum is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Pentylene Glycol
Glycerin
Methyl Gluceth-20
Alcohol
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Niacinamide
Polyglycerin-3
Methylpropanediol
Prunus Persica Flower Extract
Prunus Persica Leaf Extract
Algae Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Octyldodeceth-16
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Beta-Glucan
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Pteris Multifida Extract
Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract
Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Fructooligosaccharides
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Polyquaternium-51
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Cholesterol
Cyanocobalamin
Caprylyl Glycol
Glycine
Acetyl Glutamine
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate
Serine
Glutamic Acid
Aspartic Acid
Leucine
Alanine
Lysine
Arginine
Tyrosine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Threonine
Valine
Isoleucine
Histidine
Cysteine
Methionine
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Hexapeptide-9
Nonapeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-1
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Alcohol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Niacinamide, Polyglycerin-3, Methylpropanediol, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Prunus Persica Leaf Extract, Algae Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Octyldodeceth-16, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Beta-Glucan, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Pteris Multifida Extract, Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract, Leucojum Aestivum Bulb Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Fructooligosaccharides, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Cholesterol, Cyanocobalamin, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycine, Acetyl Glutamine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Sodium Chloride
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Panthenol
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract
Salvia Sclarea Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract
Morus Alba Fruit Extract
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Linoleic Acid
Biotin
Menadione
Ascorbic Acid
Water, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Alcohol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Panthenol, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Linoleic Acid, Biotin, Menadione, Ascorbic Acid
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.