Skin science article
Dr. Jart+ Vital Hydra Solution Biome Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream
Dr. Jart+ Vital Hydra Solution Biome Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated
Dr. Jart+ Vital Hydra Solution Biome Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Propanediol
Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Methyl Trimethicone
Niacinamide
Pentylene Glycol
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
C12-16 Alcohols
Tranexamic Acid
Cetearyl Olivate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Arachidyl Alcohol
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Palmitic Acid
Sorbitan Olivate
DNA
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Behenyl Alcohol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Arachidyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Aspergillus/Glucose/Soybean/Starch Ferment Filtrate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Adenosine
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Disodium EDTA
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Glucose
Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract
Lupinus Albus Seed Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Glycine
Proline
Glyceryl Glucoside
Dextrin
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Fructose
Parfum
Limonene
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Linoleic Acid
Tocopherol
Ascorbic Acid
Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Propanediol, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Methyl Trimethicone, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Tranexamic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Arachidyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Olivate, DNA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Behenyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arachidyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aspergillus/Glucose/Soybean/Starch Ferment Filtrate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Glucose, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Glycine, Proline, Glyceryl Glucoside, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Fructose, Parfum, Limonene, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Arginine
Carbomer
Stearic Acid
Betaine
Sodium Polyacrylate
Allantoin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Panthenol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
Myristic Acid
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Snail Secretion Filtrate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Water, Palmitic Acid, Arginine, Carbomer, Stearic Acid, Betaine, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Myristic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!