Skin science article
Dr. Jart+ Vital Hydra Solution Biome Eye Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid
Dr. Jart+ Vital Hydra Solution Biome Eye Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-ag
Dr. Jart+ Vital Hydra Solution Biome Eye Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Propanediol
Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Methyl Trimethicone
Niacinamide
Pentylene Glycol
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
C12-16 Alcohols
Tranexamic Acid
Cetearyl Olivate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Arachidyl Alcohol
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Palmitic Acid
Sorbitan Olivate
DNA
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Behenyl Alcohol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Arachidyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Aspergillus/Glucose/Soybean/Starch Ferment Filtrate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Adenosine
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Disodium EDTA
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Glucose
Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract
Lupinus Albus Seed Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Glycine
Proline
Glyceryl Glucoside
Dextrin
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Fructose
Parfum
Limonene
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Linoleic Acid
Tocopherol
Ascorbic Acid
Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Propanediol, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Methyl Trimethicone, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Tranexamic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Arachidyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Olivate, DNA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Behenyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arachidyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aspergillus/Glucose/Soybean/Starch Ferment Filtrate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Glucose, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Glycine, Proline, Glyceryl Glucoside, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Fructose, Parfum, Limonene, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Squalane
Glyceryl Stearate
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Polysorbate 20
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Retinol
Caffeine
Ceramide Ng
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Allantoin
Atelocollagen
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides
Oleic Acid
Stearic Acid
Triolein
Cholesterol
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Lecithin
Sodium Polyacrylate
Polysilicone-11
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Mica
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin)
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Polyethylene
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Steareth-30
Dipropylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Tin Oxide
Citric Acid
CI 77891
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Glycerin, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinol, Caffeine, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Atelocollagen, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Linoleic Acid, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Triolein, Cholesterol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polysilicone-11, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Mica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin), Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyethylene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Steareth-30, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Tin Oxide, Citric Acid, CI 77891
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Linoleic Acid is also known as Vitamin F. It is a fatty acid with emollient and skin conditioning properties.
Our top layer of skin, or epidermis, naturally contains high amounts of linoleic acid.
Your body uses linoleic acid to build ceramides and prostaglandins. Ceramides keep your skin's barrier hydrated and strong while prosaglandins help control inflammation and healing.
Needless to say, linoleic acid is crucial for having a strong skin barrier.
One study found applying linoleic acid rich sunflower oil to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than olive oil.
This ingredient can also help treat acne by softening sebum to prevent clogged pores. Another study found using 2.5% linoleic acid gel for 4 weeks showed a 25% reduction in small comedones.
Studies show it can also help lighten hyperpigmentation or sun spots by disrupting the melanin production process. It also helps your skin shed melanin pigment from your skin caused by UV exposure.
Due to its role in the production of the fatty acid prostaglandin, linoleic acid can also help reduce inflammation and support wound healing.
Fun fact: Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid. This means our bodies cannot create it on its own and we need to get it through foods such as nuts and vegetable oils.
Just know this ingredient is not always fungal-acne safe because it is a long-chain fatty acid (with 18 carbon atoms) that directly feeds the Malassezia yeast responsible for fungal acne.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!