Skin science article
Dr. Rashel Beauty Elixirs Vitamin A Retinol Age-defying & Rejuvenation Face Serum Versus Educated Mess Freeze Frame Peptide Serum Concentrate
Dr. Rashel Beauty Elixirs Vitamin A Retinol Age-defying & Rejuvenation Face Serum Versus Educated Mess Freeze Frame Peptide Serum Concentrate This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Palmitate and Carnosine to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-a
Dr. Rashel Beauty Elixirs Vitamin A Retinol Age-defying & Rejuvenation Face Serum Versus Educated Mess Freeze Frame Peptide Serum Concentrate
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Palmitate and Carnosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propylene Glycol
Glycerin
Trehalose
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate
Retinyl Palmitate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Disodium EDTA
Carnosine
Parfum
Tocopherol
Ethylhexylglycerin
CI 19140
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Water, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Trehalose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Carnosine, Parfum, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 19140, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetamidoethoxyethanol
Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2
Cyclopentasiloxane
Polysorbate 20
Menthyl Lactate
Resveratrol
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52
Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18
Diamond Powder
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Glyceryl Caprylate
Phenylpropanol
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Glycerin, Acetamidoethoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Menthyl Lactate, Resveratrol, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18, Diamond Powder, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenylpropanol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.