Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

DR's Secret Aqua Boost Serum 10 Versus Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster

DR's Secret Aqua Boost Serum 10 Versus Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster This hydrating treatment is formulated around Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating treatment is formulated around Sodium H

DR's Secret Aqua Boost Serum 10 Versus Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster

This hydrating treatment is formulated around Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This hydrating treatment is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Betaine

Trehalose

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Panthenol

Arginine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Carbomer

Caprylyl Glycol

Allantoin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Disodium EDTA

Lactobacillus Ferment

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

Beta-Glucan

Centella Asiatica Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Tocopherol

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Potassium Hyaluronate

Linalool

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Trehalose, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Panthenol, Arginine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Disodium EDTA, Lactobacillus Ferment, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Potassium Hyaluronate, Linalool

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Phytosphingosine

Yeast Extract

Adenosine

Cholesterol

Silanetriol

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Polysorbate 20

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Yeast Extract, Adenosine, Cholesterol, Panthenol, Silanetriol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Cocamidopropyl Betaine
  3. 03Lactic Acid
  4. 04PEG-8 Stearate
  5. 05PEG-3 Distearate
  6. 06Sodium Lactate
  7. 07Hydroxyethylcellulose
  8. 08Phenoxyethanol
  9. 09Sodium Chloride
  10. 10Glycerin
  11. 11Ethylhexylglycerin
  12. 12Parfum
  13. 13Sodium Benzoate
  14. 14Tocopherol
  15. 15Glycine Soja Oil
  16. 16Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Lactic Acid, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-3 Distearate, Sodium Lactate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil
  17. 17Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
  18. 18Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  19. 19Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate
  20. 20Cellulose Gum
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice The Unscrub

Paula's Choice The Unscrub Paula's Choice The Unscrub ingredients explained: Aqua, Jojoba Esters (Cleansing Beads), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Skin-Replenishing), Glycerin (Skin Replenis…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side