Skin science article
DR's Secret Refining Serum 9 Versus Torriden Dive-In Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
DR's Secret Refining Serum 9 Versus Torriden Dive-In Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum This pore-care treatment is formulated around Salix Alba Bark Extract and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to refine the look of pores and calm redness. This hydrating serum
DR's Secret Refining Serum 9 Versus Torriden Dive-In Low-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
This pore-care treatment is formulated around Salix Alba Bark Extract and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to refine the look of pores and calm redness.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Castanea Crenata Shell Extract
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Rhus Semialata Gall Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Carbomer
Triethanolamine
Salix Alba Bark Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Allantoin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Yeast Ferment Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Mentha Haplocalix Extract
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Menthyl Lactate
Glycerin
Hydrolyzed Albumen
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Beta-Glucan
Glycine
Glutamic Acid
Histidine
Lysine
Proline
Serine
Alanine
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Leucine
Threonine
Valine
Parfum
Phenoxyethanol
Limonene
Linalool
Hexyl Cinnamal
Citronellol
Water, Butylene Glycol, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Salix Alba Bark Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Allantoin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Mentha Haplocalix Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Menthyl Lactate, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Albumen, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Beta-Glucan, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Histidine, Lysine, Proline, Serine, Alanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Threonine, Valine, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol
Dipropylene Glycol
Panthenol
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Ectoin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
2,3-Butanediol
Trehalose
Betaine
Propanediol
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Madecassoside
Madecassic Acid
Ceramide NP
Malachite Extract
Cholesterol
Pentylene Glycol
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Pvm/Ma Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Xanthan Gum
Tromethamine
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Ectoin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, 2,3-Butanediol, Trehalose, Betaine, Propanediol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Ceramide NP, Beta-Glucan, Malachite Extract, Cholesterol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract comes from the witch hazel plant.
Witch Hazel is an astringent, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial ingredient.
The tannin in witch hazel has a drying effect when used on skin and constricts proteins. This helps minimize the look of large pores. The presence of tannins and fragrance may be sensitizing.
The catechins in witch hazel have anti-inflammatory properties while the gallic acid is antibacterial.
Indigenous groups have used witch hazel to help treat inflammation, which was then used by early settlers to North America.
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.
In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.
In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!