Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

DRMTLGY Needle-Less Serum Versus The INKEY List Niacinamide Oil Control Serum

DRMTLGY Needle-Less Serum Versus The INKEY List Niacinamide Oil Control Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles. This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide

DRMTLGY Needle-Less Serum Versus The INKEY List Niacinamide Oil Control Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Pisum Sativum Extract

Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Ceramide EOP

Glucosamine Hcl

Glycosaminoglycans

Ceramide NP

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Niacinamide

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Methylglucoside Phosphate

Copper Lysinate/Prolinate

Panthenol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Phenoxyethanol

Polysorbate 20

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Butylene Glycol

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Water, Glycerin, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pisum Sativum Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide EOP, Glucosamine Hcl, Glycosaminoglycans, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Niacinamide, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum

Propanediol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Phospholipids

Squalane

Glycine Soja Oil

Allantoin

Sodium Phytate

Polysorbate 60

Glycolipids

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glycine Soja Sterols

Citric Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Phosphate

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phospholipids, Squalane, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja Oil, Allantoin, Sodium Phytate, Polysorbate 60, Panthenol, Glycolipids, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Citric Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Cetearyl Alcohol
  3. 03Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
  4. 04Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
  5. 05Myristyl Myristate
  6. 06Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
  7. 07Glycerin
  8. 08Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  9. 09Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  10. 10Triheptanoin
  11. 11Cetearyl Glucoside
  12. 12Myristyl Laurate
  13. 13Oryzanol
  14. 14Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
  15. 15Ethylhexylglycerin
  16. 16Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
  17. 17Bisabolol
  18. 18Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
  19. 19Carbomer
  20. 20Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Madecassoside Mask

The Inkey List Madecassoside Mask The Inkey List Madecassoside Mask ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycerin, …

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side