Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream Versus RoC Derm Correxion Contour Cream

DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream Versus RoC Derm Correxion Contour Cream This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Et

DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream Versus RoC Derm Correxion Contour Cream

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glyceryl Stearate

Propanediol

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glycerin

Isopropyl Palmitate

Undecane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

PEG-100 Stearate

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Tridecane

Allantoin

Tocopherol

Glycol Distearate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Butylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Dextran

Magnesium Chloride

Phenoxyethanol

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Xanthan Gum

Water, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Undecane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Tridecane, Allantoin, Tocopherol, Glycol Distearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Dextran, Magnesium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether

Maltodextrin

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Behenate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Swertia Chirata Leaf Extract

Retinol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Stearyl Alcohol

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Isododecane

Polyacrylamide

Sodium Polyacrylate

Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer

Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer

Pentylene Glycol

Ceteareth-20

Laureth-7

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

BHT

Water, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Glycerin, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Maltodextrin, Propanediol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Behenate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Swertia Chirata Leaf Extract, Retinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Stearyl Alcohol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isododecane, Polysorbate 20, Polyacrylamide, Sodium Polyacrylate, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Ceteareth-20, Laureth-7, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Sodium Hydroxide

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glyceryl Stearate
  3. 03Propanediol
  4. 04C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
  5. 05Glycerin
  6. 06Isopropyl Palmitate
  7. 07Undecane
  8. 08Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  9. 09Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  10. 10Cetyl Alcohol
  11. 11Dimethicone
  12. 12PEG-100 Stearate
  13. 13Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
  14. 14Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
  15. 15Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
  16. 16Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
  17. 17Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
  18. 18Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
  19. 19Ceramide NP
  20. 20Ceramide AP
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

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Product

DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream

DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream ingredients explained: Water/Aqua/Eau, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Undecane…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side