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Skin science article

Drunk Elephant Bora Barrier Repair Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream

Drunk Elephant Bora Barrier Repair Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Glucosyl Ceramide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturiz

Drunk Elephant Bora Barrier Repair Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Glucosyl Ceramide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

C10-18 Triglycerides

Cetearyl Alcohol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Beta-Sitosterol

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

Oleic Acid

Squalane

Butylene Glycol

Glucosyl Ceramide

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Glycosphingolipids

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Alpha-Glucan

Resveratrol

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

Copper Gluconate

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sodium PCA

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Sorbitan Isostearate

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Quercetin

Astaxanthin

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ceramide AP

Ceramide NP

Ceramide EOP

Dextrin

Palmitic Acid

Coco-Glucoside

Sodium Lactate

Stearic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Xanthan Gum

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Hydroxide

Tocopherol

Polysorbate 60

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Beta-Sitosterol, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Oleic Acid, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Glucosyl Ceramide, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glycosphingolipids, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Alpha-Glucan, Resveratrol, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium PCA, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sorbitan Isostearate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Quercetin, Astaxanthin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Dextrin, Palmitic Acid, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Lactate, Stearic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin

Oryza Sativa Bran Water

Panax Ginseng Root Water

Hydrogenated Polydecene

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Coconut Oil

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Adenosine

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Disodium EDTA

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Honey Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Water, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Glycerin, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Honey Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Dextrin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Dextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.

Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.

In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.

This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.

Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.

Typical real-world usage is much lower: usually under 1% as a texture modifier and up to 40% in masks (rinse off products use less).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Oryza Sativa Bran Water
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Panax Ginseng Root Water
  5. 05Hydrogenated Polydecene
  6. 061,2-Hexanediol
  7. 07Niacinamide
  8. 08Squalane
  9. 09Butylene Glycol
  10. 10Propanediol
  11. 11Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
  12. 12Cetearyl Olivate
  13. 13Sorbitan Olivate
  14. 14Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
  15. 15Xanthan Gum
  16. 16Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  17. 17Tromethamine
  18. 18Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
  19. 19Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
  20. 20Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Beauty of Joseon Repair Serum

Beauty of Joseon Repair Serum Beauty of Joseon Repair Serum ingredients explained: Panax Ginseng Root Water (63%), Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Snail Secretion Filtrate (3%), Dipropylen…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side