Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream Versus Acure Radically Rejuvenating Whipped Night Cream

Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream Versus Acure Radically Rejuvenating Whipped Night Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging nig

Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream Versus Acure Radically Rejuvenating Whipped Night Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isopropyl Isostearate

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Cetearyl Alcohol

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-6 Ximenia Americana Seedate

Cholesterol

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Ceramide NP

Phytosphingosine

Ceteareth-20

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Tocopherol

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Sodium Hydroxide

Citric Acid

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Ximenia Americana Seedate, Cholesterol, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopherol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Cetearyl Olivate

Coconut Alkanes

Sorbitan Olivate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Acetyl Glutamine

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Ferulic Acid

Nymphaea Odorata Root Extract

Symphytum Officinale Root Cell Extract

Sodium PCA

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Isomalt

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Sodium Anisate

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Sodium Levulinate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Sorbitan Isostearate

Polysorbate 20

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Coconut Alkanes, Sorbitan Olivate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Acetyl Glutamine, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Ferulic Acid, Nymphaea Odorata Root Extract, Symphytum Officinale Root Cell Extract, Sodium PCA, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Isomalt, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Sodium Anisate, Xanthan Gum, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Sodium Levulinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Citric Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil (aka marula oil) is a skin hydrating ingredient.

Its fatty acid profile is dominated by oleic acid (~69%), palmitic acid (~15%), linoleic acid (~9%), and palmitoleic acid (~4%).

These fatty acids are very similar to those naturally found in the epidermis, making this oil biomimetic; basically, your skin recognizes it.

Clinical testing found this ingredient to be moisturizing and non-irritating, with noteworthy effects on reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Besides fatty acids, marula oil is also rich in oxidative stabilizers like vitamin E, vitamin C precursors, and polyphenols. This gives it excellent shelf stability compared to most facial oils.

This is a great ingredient for dry, dull, or barrier-compromised skin.

Just know it may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fatty acids can as as a food source for the Malassezia yeast.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  4. 04Isopropyl Isostearate
  5. 05Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
  6. 06Glyceryl Stearate Se
  7. 07Cetearyl Alcohol
  8. 08Palmitic Acid
  9. 09Stearic Acid
  10. 10Pentylene Glycol
  11. 11Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
  12. 12Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
  13. 13Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
  14. 14Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
  15. 15Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
  16. 16Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
  17. 17Polyglyceryl-6 Ximenia Americana Seedate
  18. 18Cholesterol
  19. 19Ceramide AP
  20. 20Ceramide EOP
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side