Skin science article
Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream Versus La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Serum Essence
Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream Versus La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Serum Essence This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum
Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream Versus La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Serum Essence
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isopropyl Isostearate
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Alcohol
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Polyglyceryl-6 Ximenia Americana Seedate
Cholesterol
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Ceramide NP
Phytosphingosine
Ceteareth-20
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Tocopherol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Ximenia Americana Seedate, Cholesterol, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopherol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Algae Extract
Dimethicone
Isododecane
Polysilicone-11
Butylene Glycol
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Medicago Sativa Seed Powder
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Sodium Gluconate
Copper Gluconate
Calcium Gluconate
Magnesium Gluconate
Zinc Gluconate
Tocopheryl Succinate
Niacin
Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder
Propanediol
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Gelidiella Acerosa Extract
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract
Whey Protein
Caffeine
Acetyl Glucosamine
Pisum Sativum Extract
Helichrysum Arenarium Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Centaurium Erythraea Extract
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Sucrose
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Jania Rubens Extract
PEG-8
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Molasses Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Micrococcus Lysate
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Palmaria Palmata Extract
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Polysorbate 20
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium PCA
Urea
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycosaminoglycans
Parfum
Isohexadecane
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tetraacetylphytosphingosine
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Squalane
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Ruby Powder
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Rice Extract
Tourmaline
Hydrolyzed Algin
Potassium Sorbate
Gold
Glucosamine Hcl
Yeast Polysaccharides
Polysorbate 80
Trehalose
Polyquaternium-51
Hexylene Glycol
Faex Extract
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Lecithin
Maltodextrin
Alcohol Denat.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Hydroxycitronellal
Citronellol
Geraniol
Linalool
Limonene
Caramel
CI 14700
Algae Extract, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Polysilicone-11, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Water, Propanediol, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Whey Protein, Caffeine, Acetyl Glucosamine, Pisum Sativum Extract, Helichrysum Arenarium Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Centaurium Erythraea Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Sucrose, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Jania Rubens Extract, PEG-8, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Molasses Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Micrococcus Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Urea, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycosaminoglycans, Parfum, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Squalane, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Ruby Powder, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Tourmaline, Hydrolyzed Algin, Potassium Sorbate, Gold, Glucosamine Hcl, Caprylyl Glycol, Yeast Polysaccharides, Polysorbate 80, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51, Hexylene Glycol, Faex Extract, Cholesterol, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Alcohol Denat., Xanthan Gum, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Caramel, CI 14700
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.