Skin science article
Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream Versus Tarte Baba Bomb 24-hour Hydrating Moisturizer
Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream Versus Tarte Baba Bomb 24-hour Hydrating Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair mo
Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream Versus Tarte Baba Bomb 24-hour Hydrating Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Olea Europaea Fruit Oil and Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isopropyl Isostearate
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Alcohol
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Polyglyceryl-6 Ximenia Americana Seedate
Cholesterol
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Ceramide NP
Phytosphingosine
Ceteareth-20
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Tocopherol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Ximenia Americana Seedate, Cholesterol, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopherol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Glyceryl Stearate
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Vinyldimethicone
Isohexadecane
Tromethamine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polysorbate 80
Persea Gratissima Oil
Sorbitan Oleate
Disodium EDTA
Myristic Acid
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Ginseng Saponins
Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Pentylene Glycol, Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Stearic Acid, Vinyldimethicone, Isohexadecane, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 80, Persea Gratissima Oil, Sorbitan Oleate, Disodium EDTA, Myristic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Ginseng Saponins
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds from the tea plant. This is the same plant we get green, black, and oolong tea from.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil is rich in oleic acid. This makes it an effective moisturizer. By drawing moisture to the skin, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil helps keep your skin hydrated.
Other components of Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil includes Vitamin E and polyphenols. These are antioxidants that may help slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or unstable molecules that can damage our skin cells.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil also has anti-inflammatory properties.
The seed oil comes from the dried kernels of the plant.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!