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Skin science article

Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Versus La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream

Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Versus La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturiz

Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Versus La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Cholesterol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Nymphaea Alba Root Extract

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Alanine

Arginine

Glycine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Serine

Threonine

Valine

Acetyl Glutamine

Coconut Alkanes

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Aspartic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Lecithin

Butylene Glycol

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Sodium Lactate

Sodium PCA

PCA

Sorbitan Isostearate

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 60

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Xanthan Gum

Isomalt

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Phenoxyethanol

Tocopherol

Sodium Benzoate

Phenylpropanol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine, Arginine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aspartic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Isomalt, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenylpropanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract

Algae Extract

Cyclopentasiloxane

Petrolatum

Glyceryl Distearate

Phenyl Trimethicone

Cyclohexasiloxane

Cholesterol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Steareth-10

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Polysilicone-11

Glyceryl Triacetyl Ricinoleate

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Medicago Sativa Seed Powder

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Sodium Gluconate

Copper Gluconate

Calcium Gluconate

Magnesium Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Tocopheryl Succinate

Niacin

Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder

Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Plankton Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Caffeine

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Triethylhexanoin

Cetyl Alcohol

Diethylhexyl Succinate

Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate

Cyanocobalamin

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Distearyldimonium Chloride

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Sucrose

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Trehalose

Hydrolyzed Algin

Micrococcus Lysate

Maris Sal

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Lactoperoxidase

Glucose Oxidase

Urea

Glucose

Polyacrylamide

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

PEG-8

Laureth-7

Triacetin

Sodium Chloride

Polyquaternium-51

Potassium Phosphate

Alcohol Denat.

Parfum

Limonene

Linalool

Hydroxycitronellal

Citronellol

Geraniol

BHT

Disodium EDTA

Sorbic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Algae Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Petrolatum, Glyceryl Distearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Cholesterol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Steareth-10, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Polysilicone-11, Glyceryl Triacetyl Ricinoleate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Water, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Plankton Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium PCA, Cetyl Alcohol, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Cyanocobalamin, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Sucrose, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed Algin, Micrococcus Lysate, Maris Sal, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Lactoperoxidase, Glucose Oxidase, Urea, Glucose, Polyacrylamide, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, PEG-8, Laureth-7, Lecithin, Triacetin, Sodium Chloride, Polyquaternium-51, Potassium Phosphate, Alcohol Denat., Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Geraniol, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.

Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.

As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.

There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.

Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.

It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Dicaprylyl Carbonate
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Cetearyl Alcohol
  5. 05Cetearyl Olivate
  6. 06Sorbitan Olivate
  7. 07Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
  8. 08Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
  9. 09Nymphaea Alba Root Extract
  10. 10Sh-Oligopeptide-1
  11. 11Sh-Oligopeptide-2
  12. 12Sh-Polypeptide-1
  13. 13Sh-Polypeptide-9
  14. 14Sh-Polypeptide-11
  15. 15Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
  16. 16Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
  17. 17Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
  18. 18Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
  19. 19Alanine
  20. 20Arginine
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side