Skin science article
Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream
Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This barrier-r
Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Nymphaea Alba Root Extract
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Alanine
Arginine
Glycine
Histidine
Isoleucine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Serine
Threonine
Valine
Acetyl Glutamine
Coconut Alkanes
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Aspartic Acid
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Lecithin
Butylene Glycol
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Sodium Lactate
Sodium PCA
PCA
Sorbitan Isostearate
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 60
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
Isomalt
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Phenoxyethanol
Tocopherol
Sodium Benzoate
Phenylpropanol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine, Arginine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aspartic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Isomalt, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenylpropanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract
Squalane
Propanediol
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Triheptanoin
Niacinamide
Saccharide Isomerate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Squalene
Zinc PCA
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
Allantoin
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Phytosterols
Amylopectin
Folic Acid
Oligopeptide-3
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Oligopeptide-1
Oligopeptide-2
Hexapeptide-11
Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract
Lactic Acid
Glucose
Acetyl Heptapeptide-4
C14-22 Alcohols
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Ethylhexylglycerin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Pentylene Glycol
Water, Squalane, Propanediol, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Triheptanoin, Niacinamide, Saccharide Isomerate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Squalene, Zinc PCA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Allantoin, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phytosterols, Acetyl Glutamine, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Amylopectin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Folic Acid, Oligopeptide-3, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Tocopherol, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Lactic Acid, Glucose, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
We don't have a description for Acetyl Glutamine yet.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.