Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Versus Tula Skincare 24-7 Moisture Hydrating Day & Night Cream

Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Versus Tula Skincare 24-7 Moisture Hydrating Day & Night Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This bar

Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream Versus Tula Skincare 24-7 Moisture Hydrating Day & Night Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Nymphaea Alba Root Extract

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Alanine

Arginine

Glycine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Serine

Threonine

Valine

Acetyl Glutamine

Coconut Alkanes

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Aspartic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Lecithin

Butylene Glycol

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Sodium Lactate

Sodium PCA

PCA

Sorbitan Isostearate

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 60

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Xanthan Gum

Isomalt

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Phenoxyethanol

Tocopherol

Sodium Benzoate

Phenylpropanol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine, Arginine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aspartic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Isomalt, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenylpropanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Squalane

Cetyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dimethicone

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Lactose

Lactis Proteinum

Yogurt Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Cichorium Intybus Root Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Vegetable Oil

Camelina Sativa Seed Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Pentylene Glycol

Bulnesia Sarmientoi Wood Oil

Citrus Limon Fruit Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Juniperus Mexicana Oil

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Stearyl Alcohol

Disodium EDTA

Citric Acid

Sorbic Acid

Phenethyl Alcohol

Potassium Sorbate

Parfum

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Linalool

Hexyl Cinnamal

Water, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactose, Lactis Proteinum, Yogurt Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Vegetable Oil, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Bulnesia Sarmientoi Wood Oil, Citrus Limon Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Sorbic Acid, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.

Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.

As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.

There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.

Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.

It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
  4. 04You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
  5. 05These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
  6. 06This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
  7. 07Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
  8. 08Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  9. 09Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  10. 10Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  11. 11Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  12. 12This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  13. 13Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  14. 14Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  15. 15Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  16. 16It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  17. 17On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  18. 18Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  19. 19You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
  20. 20Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side