Skin science article
Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum
Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum This smoothing serum is formulated around Lactic Acid and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging s
Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum
This smoothing serum is formulated around Lactic Acid and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-10 Citrulline and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Lactic Acid
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Squalane
Sodium Hydroxide
Glycine Max Seed Extract
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Sodium PCA
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Tocotrienols
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Tripeptide-1
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Propanediol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Panthenol
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Sodium Lactate
PCA
Alanine
Arginine
Glycine
Histidine
Isoleucine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Serine
Threonine
Valine
Adenosine
Nymphaea Alba Root Extract
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract
Dextran
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Acetyl Glutamine
Coconut Alkanes
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Pentylene Glycol
Isomalt
Lecithin
Xanthan Gum
Aspartic Acid
Phytosphingosine
Phospholipids
Glycine Soja Sterols
Tocopherol
Citric Acid
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Polysorbate 20
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenylpropanol
Chlorphenesin
Carbomer
Glyceryl Caprylate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Squalane, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Sodium PCA, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Tocotrienols, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tripeptide-1, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Alanine, Arginine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Adenosine, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract, Dextran, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Pentylene Glycol, Isomalt, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Aspartic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Phospholipids, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Chlorphenesin, Carbomer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Rosa Centifolia Flower Water
Isopropyl Myristate
Mannitol
Natto Gum
Tripeptide-10 Citrulline
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Hexapeptide-11
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Sodium Polyglutamate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Retinyl Palmitate
Ascorbic Acid
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Acrylates Copolymer
Magnesium Chloride
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
PEG-8 Dimethicone
Disodium Phosphate
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Triethanolamine
Sodium Phosphate
Octyldodecanol
Silica
Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Isopropyl Myristate, Squalane, Mannitol, Butylene Glycol, Natto Gum, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hexapeptide-11, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Polyglutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lecithin, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Acrylates Copolymer, Magnesium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, PEG-8 Dimethicone, Disodium Phosphate, Carbomer, Dextran, Sodium Lactate, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Sodium Phosphate, Octyldodecanol, Silica, Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.
Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 is a synthetic lipopeptide. This just means it's a short chain of six amino acids with a palmitic acid molecule attached to one end.
The palmitoyl group increases the lipophilicity, helping it penetrate the lipid-rich outer layer of skin more effectively.
Once inside, it helps with keeping skin springy and firm. It works by mimicking the skin repair signals your skin naturally sends out when it's damaged and telling it to kick into rebuild mode.
Studies have shown it can help strengthen the skin barrier as well so it's useful beyond just anti-aging.
In vitro studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure. Just keep in mind most of the strong evidence is from lab studies rather than large-scale clinical trials.
Lab studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure.
This ingredient is usually used at very low concentrations (0.002% in leave-on products).
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.
This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.
GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.
In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.
Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.
Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.
A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.
While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.
Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.