Skin science article
E45 Sun Care Sensitive Face Cream SPF 50+ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
E45 Sun Care Sensitive Face Cream SPF 50+ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-
E45 Sun Care Sensitive Face Cream SPF 50+ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Phenoxyethyl Caprylate
Ethylhexyl Triazone
C12-13 Alkyl Lactate
Glycerin
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Propanediol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Squalane
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dimethicone
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer
PEG-100 Stearate
Arginine
Coco-Glucoside
Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Phenoxyethyl Caprylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Glycerin, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethicone, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG-100 Stearate, Arginine, Coco-Glucoside, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Niacinamide
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylyl Methicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Adenosine
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.
You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.
This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.
In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.
Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone (aka Iscotrizinol) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that mainly absorbs UVB and a bit of UVA II light.
This ingredient is great at preventing sunburn but doesn't cover the deep UVA I range. This is why it's often paired with a UVA filter like Avobenzone or Bemotrizinol.
Two of its biggest selling points are efficiency and stability:
Most of the other chemical filters are considered "photostable" if they can last for two hours.
Because this ingredient is oil-loving, it can sit neatly into the oil phase of emulsions and shines in water-repellent/water-resistant formulations.
The EU and Canada allow it to be used up to 10% and Japan allows it up to 5%.
Unfortunately, it's not yet an FDA approved sunscreen agent so you won't be able to find it in sunscreens in the US.
Safety-wise, it has a pretty solid record: the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has reviewed it and found low skin absorption, no capacity to produce skin irritation or photo-irritation.
In vitro testing has found less than 0.1% of the applied dose is absorbed by the skin over 24 hours (mostly due to its large molecule size).
Fun fact: This ingredient even has anti-inflammatory properties similar to those of ketoprofe, an anti-inflammatory medication.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.