Skin science article
Earth Rhythm Moisture Punch Multimolecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Dot & Key Skincare Ceramides & Hyaluronic Skin Barrier Repair Face Cream
Earth Rhythm Moisture Punch Multimolecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Dot & Key Skincare Ceramides & Hyaluronic Skin Barrier Repair Face Cream This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Laminaria Digitata Extract to hydrate skin and str
Earth Rhythm Moisture Punch Multimolecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Dot & Key Skincare Ceramides & Hyaluronic Skin Barrier Repair Face Cream
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Laminaria Digitata Extract to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramide EOP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Sodium Hyaluronate
Water
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide NP
Ceramide As
Ceramide AP
Cholesterol
1,2-Hexanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Triethylene Glycol
Sodium Hyaluronate, Water, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Triethylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Dimethicone
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Cyclopentasiloxane
Hyaluronic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Polyglutamic Acid
Lactobacillus
Maltodextrin
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Stearic Acid
Sodium Polyacrylate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate
Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
BHT
Sodium Hydroxide
Xanthan Gum
Disodium EDTA
C14-22 Alcohols
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Benzyl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopherol
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hyaluronic Acid, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglutamic Acid, Lactobacillus, Maltodextrin, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, BHT, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol
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Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
Ceramide AS is formally known as Ceramides 4 and 5.
Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.
Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.
It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.
EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.
What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).
Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.
Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.
In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.
You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Ceramide NS is formally known as Ceramide 2. It is one of the major ceramides in the stratum corneum (outermost layer of skin) plays a role in forming a protective barrier.
Due to its structure, skin lipids can be packed tightly and in turn, this strengthens the barrier and reduces water loss.
Studies show conditions like atopic dermatitis can worsen when ceramide NS levels are low.
This ingredient is a synthetic mimic for ceramide NS and is often called a "pseudo-ceramide". It was developed by Kao Corporation in Japan (the same corporation that owns Biore and Curel).
Ceramides play a big role in your stratum corneum, or the outermost layer of skin. Your stratum corneum is structured like a brick wall where skin cells are bricks and ceramides are a big part of the mortar holding everything together.
Aging, harsh cleansers, environmental damage, or skin conditions can cause ceramide levels to drop. This leads to moisture loss, irritation, and dryness.
This is where this ingredient steps in: it's structurally designed with the same key features as natural ceramides. Because of this, it can slot into the lipid layers of your stratum corneum and behave just like real ceramides.
Research on patients with atopic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, and sensitive skin has shown that topical application of this ingredient enhances stratum corneum function.
Another four-week randomized study on lip care found formulas containing 0.5% or 2% of this ingredient improved lip dryness and roughness.
A study on hairdressers with occupational hand dermatitis found that a barrier cream containing this ingredient reduced dryness, scaling, cracking, redness, and itching.
And a more recent study confirmed that this ingredient is absorbed into the stratum corneum and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), just like a real ceramide.
This ingredient is more stable, free from contaminants, and significantly cheaper to produce. This makes it more practical for everyday skincare formulations.
Laminaria Digitata Extract comes from the big brown seaweed (or kelp) that grows in the North Atlantic. In skincare, it's mostly used as a skin protectant and conditioning agent.
The most interesting stuff inside is mostly just sugars and minerals: fucoidan (a sulfated polysaccharide), laminarin (a beta-glucan), alginates, and phlorotannins (seaweed polyphenols).
Any antioxidant and soothing claims mostly come from those polysaccharides; crude laminarin and fucoidan from Laminaria digitata do show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in lab assays.
Just know that the lab assays are test-tube work on isolated compounds and not clinical trials on the finished extract.
Realistically, this ingredient is a nice-feeling and hydrating skin conditioner (not really an active).
Safety-wise, it's one of the better documented seaweeds and safe to be used in cosmetics according to the CIR Expert Panel.
Industry surveys find that usage concentrations run can be found up to 5% in bubble baths and leave-on usage is more likely 0.1-3%.
The risk of allergy is also quite low as human repeat insult patch tests (under 5% and blends containing 8-12%) came back non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Rabbit studies came back negative too, though one trade mixture at 1.5-2.5% in water + propylene glycol did cause moderate irritation at 30 minutes.
Reported seaweed allergies in the literature are almost all occupational (people handling wet kelp) or from a totally unrelated blue/green alga.
At this time, there's actually no published comedogenicity test on it and the evidence that does exist points away from clogging.
Laminaria Digitata Extract has never been run through the rabbit ear assay or the Mills & Kligman human model and it isn't in Fulton's 1989 list of tested comedogenic ratings.
The CIR's brown algae review pulled every published and unpublished study industry had on 82 seaweed ingredients and found no comedogenicity data for any of them.
So any number you see online was assigned by a person and not actually measured.
In 2012, Capitanio et al. ran an 8-week double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial in 60 people with mild acne using a Laminaria digitata-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone.
They found comedones, papules and pustules dropped significantly more in the active group than the vehicle group at 2, 4 and 8 weeks.
Caveats for this study: a Laminaria digitata-derived oligosaccharide is just fraction and not the plain extract, and the zinc is likely doing real work. Still, the study found comedones went down in acne-prone skin.
This fits mechanistically. Comedogenesis is largely a lipid story and this is water-soluble polysaccharides, minerals, and polyphenols. There's nothing really to plug a follicle with.
The real caveat is the carrier: some supplier versions come dispersed in caprylic/capric triglycerides.
The 0-5 scale comes from applying ingredients to the inside of an albino rabbit's ear. Rabbit follicles are far more reactive than human ones so it over-predicts. Even petrolatum was reassigned as non-comedogenic by the original scientist, Kligman.
Here are three more problems of comedogenic ratings:
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!