Skin science article
Elemis Pro-Collagen Advanced Eye Treatment Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum
Elemis Pro-Collagen Advanced Eye Treatment Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulate
Elemis Pro-Collagen Advanced Eye Treatment Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propylene Glycol
Glycerin
Oryza Sativa Hull Powder
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sclerotium Gum
Diazolidinyl Urea
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium PCA
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Lactate
Potassium Sorbate
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
PCA
Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Glycine
Alanine
Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract
Serine
Valine
Linalool
Caramel
Threonine
Isoleucine
Proline
Parfum
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Osmanthus Fragrans Flower Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Histidine
Phenylalanine
Sodium Hydroxide
Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract
Water, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Oryza Sativa Hull Powder, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium PCA, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Sorbate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PCA, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Serine, Valine, Linalool, Caramel, Threonine, Isoleucine, Proline, Parfum, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Osmanthus Fragrans Flower Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Sodium Hydroxide, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Dipropylene Glycol
Acetyl Glucosamine
Niacinamide
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Caffeine
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
Gallyl Glucoside
Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract
Silanetriol
Pentylene Glycol
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Propyl Gallate
Maltodextrin
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Citric Acid
Glycolic Acid
Sodium Citrate
Polysorbate 20
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Benzyl Alcohol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Acetyl Glucosamine, Niacinamide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Caffeine, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Silanetriol, Arginine, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Propyl Gallate, Maltodextrin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!