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Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm Versus Allies of Skin Vitamin C & Omegas Cleansing Balm

Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm Versus Allies of Skin Vitamin C & Omegas Cleansing Balm This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Prunus A

Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm Versus Allies of Skin Vitamin C & Omegas Cleansing Balm

This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

PEG-8 Beeswax

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Stearate

Sambucus Nigra Seed Oil

PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

Silica

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Cera

Glycerin

Lecithin

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Linalool

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Rosa Multiflora Flower Cera

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Geraniol

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Tocopherol

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Citronellol

Cinnamomum Camphora Wood Oil

Limonene

Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Parfum

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Menthol

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Citric Acid

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-8 Beeswax, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sambucus Nigra Seed Oil, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Silica, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Cera, Glycerin, Lecithin, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Rosa Multiflora Flower Cera, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Geraniol, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Tocopherol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Citronellol, Cinnamomum Camphora Wood Oil, Limonene, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Parfum, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Menthol, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Citric Acid

C15-19 Alkane

Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate

Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate

Trihydroxystearin

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Tocopheryl Acetate

Squalene

Glycine Soja Oil

Beta-Sitosterol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C15-19 Alkane, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate, Trihydroxystearin, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Squalene, Glycine Soja Oil, Beta-Sitosterol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.

The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.

Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.

The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.

Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.

The fatty acids of grape seed oil give it emollient properties. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by creating a film. This film traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydrated.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 033-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
  4. 04Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
  5. 05In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
  6. 06The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
  7. 07A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
  8. 08Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
  9. 09Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
  10. 10Glutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.
  11. 11Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.
  12. 12In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.
  13. 13This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.
  14. 14A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:
  15. 15The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.
  16. 16One thing worth clearing up:
  17. 17The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.
  18. 18Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.
  19. 19There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.
  20. 20Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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