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Skin science article

Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour® Cream Sun Defense for Face SPF 50 Sunscreen Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++

Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour® Cream Sun Defense for Face SPF 50 Sunscreen Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This chemical sunscreen covers the fu

Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour® Cream Sun Defense for Face SPF 50 Sunscreen Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Zinc Oxide 11.62%

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.4%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Water

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Arachidyl Alcohol

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Arachidyl Glucoside

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Behenyl Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

BHT

Disodium EDTA

Parfum

Citral

Citronellol

Geraniol

Limonene

Linalool

Methylparaben

Phenoxyethanol

Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Silica

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Dibutyl Adipate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Cetyl Dimethicone

Triethylhexanoin

Glycerin

Acrylates Copolymer

Oryza Sativa

Biosaccharide Gum-4

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Decyl Glucoside

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Phenylpropanol

Propylene Glycol

Schizophyllan

Sodium Polyacrylate

Sorbitan Stearate

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Triethanolamine

Tripeptide-1

Benzyl Alcohol

Ethylparaben

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Propylparaben

Zinc Oxide 11.62%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.4%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Arachidyl Glucoside, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Behenyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Silica, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dibutyl Adipate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Triethylhexanoin, Glycerin, Acrylates Copolymer, Oryza Sativa, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Decyl Glucoside, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Phenylpropanol, Propylene Glycol, Schizophyllan, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sorbitan Stearate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triethanolamine, Tripeptide-1, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylparaben, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Propylparaben

Propanediol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Niacinamide

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylyl Methicone

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

1,2-Hexanediol

Oryza Sativa Extract

Oryza Sativa Germ Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Monascus/Rice Ferment

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Tromethamine

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Adenosine

T-Butyl Alcohol

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment

Aspergillus Ferment

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Pentylene Glycol

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).

Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Decyl Glucoside is a plant-derived surfactant and emulsion stabilizer. It is created by reacting glucose with the fatty acids from plants.

Like all surfactants, it works by lowering the surface tension between water and oil. This makes it so that dirt, sebum, and makeup can be lifted off your skin and rinsed away. It also produces a dense and creamy foam.

Because it has a neutral charge, it is compatible with a wide range of ingredients and stays stable across a broad pH range/water hardiness conditions.

Patch testing has shown it to have the lowest irritation potential among common cleansing surfactants (like SLS).

Typical use levels range from 5-20% in rinse-off cleansers.

One thing worth knowing: The American Contact Dermatitis Society named the parent family, alkyl glucosides, "Allergen of the Year" in 2017. The prevalence of allergy is pretty low but be sure to patch test if you've reacted to "gentle" or sulfate-free cleansers before.

This ingredient is fungal acne safe because the fatty alcohol portion of this ingredient is not within the C11-24 chain length that Malassezia can metabolize.

Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.

You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.

This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.

In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.

Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.

This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.

Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.

It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.

Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.

In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.

Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is also known as Tinosorb M or Bisoctrizole and is a bit of an overachiever in the sunscreen world.

It's a hybrid broad-spectrum filter that covers UVA and UVB (~280-400nm) with peak absorption around 305nm for UVB or 360nm for UVA (and a tiny bit in blue-light territory as well).

One of its best party tricks is photostability; it doesn't break down with repeated sun exposure and doesn't generate free radicals in the process either. You'll also see it paired with wobbly filters like avobenzone because it helps stabilize them.

The safety profile is assuring as well. Because it's a large molecule, it doesn't easily absorb into skin and rarely causes irritation.

It's approved in the EU, Asia, and Australia up to 10% and most formulas land somewhere in the 2-10% range.

You won't find it as a sunscreen active in the US, but it can make an appearance as a formula-protecting UV-absorber.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Propanediol
  3. 03Glycereth-26
  4. 04Glycerin
  5. 05Niacinamide
  6. 062,3-Butanediol
  7. 071,2-Hexanediol
  8. 08Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
  9. 09Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
  10. 10Sodium Hyaluronate
  11. 11Eclipta Prostrata Extract
  12. 12Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
  13. 13Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
  14. 14Tromethamine
  15. 15Glyceryl Stearate
  16. 16Carbomer
  17. 17Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  18. 18Ethylhexylglycerin
  19. 19Xanthan Gum
  20. 20Polyquaternium-51
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Beauty of Joseon Pore Firming Serum

Beauty of Joseon Pore Firming Serum Ingredients in Beauty of Joseon Pore Firming Serum explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 27 ingredients including Water, Butylene Glyco…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side