Elsheskin Radiant Advance Serum Versus Finally Found You! Copper Peptide Caviar Double Revive Serum

Elsheskin Radiant Advance Serum Versus Finally Found You! Copper Peptide Caviar Double Revive Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening serum is formulated around Arbutin and Allantoin to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Niacinamide

Cyclopentasiloxane

Tranexamic Acid

Alpha-Arbutin

Phytic Acid

Dipropylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

4-Butylresorcinol

Glycerin

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Kojic Acid

Acetyl Glucosamine

Allantoin

Farnesol

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water

Arisaema Amurense Extract

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol

Arginine

Bisabolol

Hexapeptide-2

Glabridin

Lactic Acid

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Linalool

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Acetyl Tyrosine

Glutathione

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Polyacrylamide

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Lauryl Glucoside

C15-19 Alkane

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Tetrasodium EDTA

Sodium Hydrosulfite

Laureth-7

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dextrin

Citric Acid

Decyl Glucoside

1,2-Hexanediol

Lecithin

Sodium Sulfite

Water, Niacinamide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tranexamic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Phytic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, 4-Butylresorcinol, Glycerin, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Kojic Acid, Acetyl Glucosamine, Allantoin, Farnesol, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water, Arisaema Amurense Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Arginine, Bisabolol, Hexapeptide-2, Glabridin, Lactic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Linalool, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Tyrosine, Glutathione, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Polyacrylamide, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Lauryl Glucoside, C15-19 Alkane, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Hydrosulfite, Laureth-7, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Citric Acid, Decyl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lecithin, Sodium Sulfite

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dibutyl Adipate

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Ceteareth-20

PEG-75 Stearate

Propylene Glycol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract

Arbutin

Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate

Caprylyl Glycol

Mica

Titanium Dioxide

Tin Oxide

Chlorphenesin

Xanthan Gum

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Ethyl Acetate

Cyclohexane

Acrylic Acid

Triethanolamine

Guaiazulene

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dibutyl Adipate, Allantoin, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Ceteareth-20, PEG-75 Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract, Arbutin, Citric Acid, Acetyl Tyrosine, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Glutathione, Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Ethyl Acetate, Cyclohexane, Acrylic Acid, Triethanolamine, Guaiazulene, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

We don't have a description for Acetyl Tyrosine yet.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP) is a form of Vitamin C. AAP was made as a more stable alternative to Ascorbic Acid by combining Ascorbic Acid (pure Vitamin C) with 3-aminoproply dehydrogen phosphate.

As a type of Vitamin C, it has antioxidant properties. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin cells.

AAP has been shown to help reduce signs of hyperigmentation and age-spots.

AAP is water soluble.

Vitamin C can help to reduce redness, improve skin texture, reduce the effects of aging, and reduce the visibility of dark spots.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.

Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.

In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.

This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.

A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:

The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.

One thing worth clearing up:

The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.

Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.

There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.

Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.

One trial had ~10% of users drop out for irritation was using a combination cream that also had 10% azelaic acid so the irritation likely wasn't from the glutathione. There's no notable contact-allergy signal for topical glutathione in the literature but patch-testing before first use is still sensible for those with sensitive skin.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract comes Peony plant. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Emerging studies also show peony root may help reduce hyperpigmentation.

Ancient Chinese medicine has used peony root to treat dark spots, but studies are looking into this claim more.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

We don't have a description for Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract yet.

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.

In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.

In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Sulfite is a preservative. Preservatives help prevent mold and bacteria from growing in cosmetics.

This ingredient has been shown to break the bonds in hair, acting as a natural straightener.

It is commonly used in food. It should be noted sodium sulfite degrades both vitamins B1 and E.

Fun fact: Sulfites are naturally occuring in wine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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