Skin science article
EltaMD, Inc Barrier Renewal Complex Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream
EltaMD, Inc Barrier Renewal Complex Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated aroun
EltaMD, Inc Barrier Renewal Complex Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream
This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Squalane
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Phenoxyethanol
Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol
Polyisobutene
Carbomer
Xylitol
Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether
Bromelain
Ceteareth-25
Tocopherol
Disodium EDTA
Glycine Soja Oil
Maltodextrin
Cetyl Alcohol
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Benzyl Alcohol
Behenic Acid
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Diethylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Silica
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Eos
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
Caprooyl Sphingosine
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Butylene Glycol
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Bisulfite
Biotin
Ficin
Glutamine
Proline
Water, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Polyisobutene, Carbomer, Xylitol, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Bromelain, Ceteareth-25, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA, Glycine Soja Oil, Maltodextrin, Cetyl Alcohol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Benzyl Alcohol, Behenic Acid, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Diethylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Silica, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Bisulfite, Biotin, Ficin, Glutamine, Proline
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Propanediol
Betaine
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Magnesium Sulfate
Glycosphingolipids
Glycolipids
Sodium Benzoate
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Oleic Acid
Polyglycerin-3
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!