Skin science article
EltaMD, Inc PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream
EltaMD, Inc PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barri
EltaMD, Inc PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream
This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
Niacinamide
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Glycerin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Butylene Glycol
Glycereth-26
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
Isomerized Safflower Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea
Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Glucoside
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Oleth-3 Phosphate
Oleic Acid
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Disodium EDTA
Thioctic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Bisulfite
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Water, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Isomerized Safflower Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Oleic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Disodium EDTA, Thioctic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Bisulfite, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Olus Oil
Cetyl Lactate
Propanediol
C12-16 Alcohols
Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Palmitic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
Squalene
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate
Glycine Soja Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Citric Acid
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Tocopherol
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phytosterols
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Gluconolactone
Phenethyl Alcohol
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Carbomer
Potassium Sorbate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus Oil, Cetyl Lactate, Propanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Squalene, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate, Glycine Soja Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Gluconolactone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein is protein extracted from rice. This ingredient is rich in antioxidants and peptides.
Studies show this ingredient may help with blocking the melanin creation process when skin is exposed to UV.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.