Skin science article
EltaMD, Inc Skin Recovery Serum Versus PCA Skin Hydrating Serum
EltaMD, Inc Skin Recovery Serum Versus PCA Skin Hydrating Serum This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium PCA an
EltaMD, Inc Skin Recovery Serum Versus PCA Skin Hydrating Serum
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium PCA and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice to hydrate skin and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Isododecane
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Polysilicone-11
Panthenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Taurine
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Arginine
Butylene Glycol
Tocopherol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Isohexadecane
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Carboxyethyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Coco-Glucoside
Polysorbate 80
Decyl Glucoside
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Citric Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Glycine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Water, Propanediol, Isododecane, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-11, Panthenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Taurine, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Arginine, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Isohexadecane, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Carboxyethyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Coco-Glucoside, Polysorbate 80, Decyl Glucoside, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glycine, Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Sodium PCA
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Sodium Lactate
Gluconolactone
Wheat Amino Acids
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Hydroxyproline
Fructose
Inositol
Niacinamide
Urea
Water, Glycerin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium PCA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Lactate, Gluconolactone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Wheat Amino Acids, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Panthenol, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Hydroxyproline, Fructose, Glycine, Inositol, Niacinamide, Urea
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!