Skin science article
Environ Skin Care Youth Essentia Vita-Peptide Eye Gel Versus Neocutis Lumière Firm Illuminating And Tightening Eye Cream
Environ Skin Care Youth Essentia Vita-Peptide Eye Gel Versus Neocutis Lumière Firm Illuminating And Tightening Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and
Environ Skin Care Youth Essentia Vita-Peptide Eye Gel Versus Neocutis Lumière Firm Illuminating And Tightening Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Panthenol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Butylene Glycol
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tribehenin
Ceramide Ng
PEG-10 Phytosterol
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Disodium EDTA
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Retinyl Palmitate
Tocopherol
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Methylparaben
Sodium Hydroxide
Propylparaben
Lactic Acid
Water, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Panthenol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tribehenin, Ceramide Ng, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Disodium EDTA, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Methylparaben, Sodium Hydroxide, Propylparaben, Lactic Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester
Cetyl Alcohol
PEG-8
Bisabolol
Caffeine
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract
Lecithin
Cutaneous Lysate
Tetrapeptide-21
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Citric Acid
Capryloyl Carnosine
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Tocotrienols
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Acetate
Ascorbic Acid
Benzoic Acid
Squalene
Phytosterols
Sodium Citrate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Potassium Sorbate
Hexylene Glycol
Saccharide Isomerate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Benzyl Alcohol
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-8, Bisabolol, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract, Lecithin, Cutaneous Lysate, Tetrapeptide-21, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Capryloyl Carnosine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocotrienols, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Squalene, Phytosterols, Sodium Citrate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Hexylene Glycol, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!