Skin science article
Epais Eyelash Essential Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Lash And Brow Serum
Epais Eyelash Essential Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Lash And Brow Serum What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Butylene Glycol Dipropylene Glycol Tromethamine Hydroxyacetophenone Carbomer Caprylyl Glycol Glyc
Epais Eyelash Essential Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Lash And Brow Serum
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Dipropylene Glycol
Tromethamine
Hydroxyacetophenone
Carbomer
Caprylyl Glycol
Glycerin
Propanediol
Disodium EDTA
Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract
Alisma Orientale Tuber Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Lavandula Angustifolia Water
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Borago Officinalis Extract
Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower/Leaf Extract
Salvia Sclarea Extract
Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract
Smilax Glabra Root Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Lecithin
Avena Strigosa Seed Extract
Dextran
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Aspalathus Linearis Extract
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Lavandula Angustifolia Extract
Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract
Origanum Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Glycine Max Seed Extract
Biotin
Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract
Citrus Junos Fruit Extract
Pueraria Mirifica Root Extract
Panthenol
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract
Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract
Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
Potassium Sorbate
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Gentiana Lutea Root Extract
Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract
Phytosterols
Squalane
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract
Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract
Berberis Vulgaris Root Extract
Morus Nigra Fruit Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ceramide NP
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Citric Acid
Copper Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Hexapeptide-9
Hexapeptide-11
Water, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Disodium EDTA, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Alisma Orientale Tuber Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lavandula Angustifolia Water, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower/Leaf Extract, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract, Smilax Glabra Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Lecithin, Avena Strigosa Seed Extract, Dextran, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Origanum Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Biotin, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Pueraria Mirifica Root Extract, Panthenol, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Phytosterols, Squalane, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Berberis Vulgaris Root Extract, Morus Nigra Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide NP, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Citric Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Hexapeptide-11
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Oligopeptide-2
Caffeine
Arginine
Glycine
Glycoproteins
Larix Europaea Wood Extract
Maltodextrin
Zinc Chloride
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Metabisulfite
Sodium Benzoate
Benzoic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Caffeine, Panthenol, Arginine, Glycine, Glycoproteins, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dextran, Maltodextrin, Zinc Chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Metabisulfite, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Benzoate, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
This biometic peptide is designed to support hair growth.
According to a manufacturer, it stimulates hair growth by:
The manufacturer has found combining this ingredient with red clover extract (Capixyl) boosted benefits. Not only does it enforce the scalp's extracellular matrix, it also inhibits the enzyme that creates DHT, a hormone that leads to hair loss.
While this ingredient is promising, more research is still needed to confirm its full effectiveness.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.
Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
This extract comes from the flower more commonly known as red clover.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!