Skin science article
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex Versus Natio Plant Peptide Firm & Smooth Eye Cream
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex Versus Natio Plant Peptide Firm & Smooth Eye Cream This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Caffeine to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wri
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex Versus Natio Plant Peptide Firm & Smooth Eye Cream
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Caffeine to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Methyl Trimethicone
Water
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Dimethicone
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Propanediol
Sucrose
Petrolatum
Polysorbate 40
Trehalose
Algae Extract
Morus Bombycis Root Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Hydrolyzed Algin
Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract
Jojoba Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Isopropyl Jojobate
Jojoba Esters
Isohexadecane
Faex Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Cholesterol
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Rna
Caffeine
Polysorbate 80
Caprylyl Glycol
Phytosphingosine
Squalane
Potassium Sulfate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tripeptide-32
Butylene Glycol
Tromethamine
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Phenoxyethanol
CI 77491
CI 77492
CI 77499
Methyl Trimethicone, Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Sucrose, Petrolatum, Polysorbate 40, Trehalose, Algae Extract, Morus Bombycis Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Jojoba Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Isopropyl Jojobate, Jojoba Esters, Isohexadecane, Faex Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Cholesterol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Rna, Caffeine, Polysorbate 80, Caprylyl Glycol, Phytosphingosine, Squalane, Potassium Sulfate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tripeptide-32, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Hydrolyzed Hazelnut Protein
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Ceramide NP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide Eos
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide AP
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
Caprooyl Sphingosine
Behenic Acid
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Xanthan Gum
Cetyl Alcohol
Ceteareth-25
Lecithin
Kaolin
CI 77891
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Hazelnut Protein, Caffeine, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Cholesterol, Behenic Acid, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-25, Lecithin, Kaolin, CI 77891, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!