Skin science article
Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Versus Urban Skin HydraFirm + Brightening Serum
Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Versus Urban Skin HydraFirm + Brightening Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles. This ant
Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Versus Urban Skin HydraFirm + Brightening Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Polysorbate 20
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Polysilicone-11
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Algae Extract
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Acetyl Glucosamine
Caffeine
Gelidiella Acerosa Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Lactic Acid
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Saccharide Isomerate
Methyl Gluceth-20
Ethylhexylglycerin
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Caprylyl Glycol
Isohexadecane
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Squalane
Sodium PCA
Urea
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Whey Protein
Palmaria Palmata Extract
Polysorbate 80
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Triolein
Hydrolyzed Rice Extract
Linoleic Acid
Trehalose
Glycine Soja Protein
Glucosamine Hcl
Phospholipids
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Ergothioneine
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
PEG-8
Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides
Pentylene Glycol
Oleic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Parfum
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Silica
Calcium Chloride
Stearic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
Mica
CI 77891
CI 77491
CI 77492
CI 77499
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Polysorbate 20, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Algae Extract, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Caffeine, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Saccharide Isomerate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Caprylyl Glycol, Isohexadecane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Whey Protein, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Triolein, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Linoleic Acid, Trehalose, Glycine Soja Protein, Glucosamine Hcl, Phospholipids, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ergothioneine, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, PEG-8, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Pentylene Glycol, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Silica, Calcium Chloride, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Niacinamide
Alpha-Arbutin
Centella Asiatica Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Water, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Alpha-Arbutin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!