Skin science article
Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme + Night Versus Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream
Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme + Night Versus Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging mois
Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme + Night Versus Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycine Soja Oil
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Glycerin
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Dimethicone
Stearyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Steareth-2
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Glyceryl Stearate
Niacinamide
Propanediol
Steareth-21
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Limonium Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Whey Protein
Acetyl Glucosamine
Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Persea Gratissima Oil
Mangifera Indica Seed Oil
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Algae Extract
Caffeine
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Silybum Marianum Seed Oil
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Dextrin Palmitate
Sodium Hydroxide
Carbomer
Behenyl Alcohol
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Cholesterol
Isoceteth-20
Lactoperoxidase
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Sodium Polyaspartate
Sorbitol
Glucose
Cetyl Alcohol
Myristyl Alcohol
Sodium Lactate
Citric Acid
Sodium PCA
Glucose Oxidase
Potassium Phosphate
Sodium Chloride
Parfum
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
CI 19140
CI 14700
CI 77491
CI 77492
Water, Glycine Soja Oil, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Dimethicone, Stearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Steareth-2, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Steareth-21, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Limonium Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Whey Protein, Acetyl Glucosamine, Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Oil, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Algae Extract, Caffeine, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Dextrin Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Carbomer, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Cholesterol, Isoceteth-20, Lactoperoxidase, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Sodium Polyaspartate, Sorbitol, Glucose, Cetyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Sodium PCA, Glucose Oxidase, Potassium Phosphate, Sodium Chloride, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 19140, CI 14700, CI 77491, CI 77492
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Nymphaea Alba Root Extract
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Alanine
Arginine
Glycine
Histidine
Isoleucine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Serine
Threonine
Valine
Acetyl Glutamine
Coconut Alkanes
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Aspartic Acid
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Lecithin
Polyvinyl Alcohol
PCA
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 60
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
Isomalt
1,2-Hexanediol
Chlorphenesin
Tocopherol
Phenylpropanol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine, Arginine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aspartic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Isomalt, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenylpropanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.
Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.
Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.
As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.
There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.
Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.
It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!