Skin science article
Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme+ Youth Power Eye Balm Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Eye Creme
Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme+ Youth Power Eye Balm Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Eye Creme This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrat
Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme+ Youth Power Eye Balm Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Eye Creme
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methyl Trimethicone
Propanediol
Isododecane
Polyethylene
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Stearyl Dimethicone
Nylon-12
Isononyl Isononanoate
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Hibiscus Sinensis Flower Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Whey Protein
Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract
Acetyl Glucosamine
Tocopheryl Acetate
Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract
Squalane
Hydrolyzed Rice Extract
Algae Extract
Limonium Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Silybum Marianum Extract
Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Caffeine
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Glucose
Magnesium Sulfate
Sucrose
Glycerin
Pinanediol
Camphanediol
Hexylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Boron Nitride
Maltodextrin
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Methicone
Artemia Extract
Polysilicone-11
Alumina
Isoceteth-20
Disteardimonium Hectorite
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Citric Acid
Octadecene
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
Chlorphenesin
Phenoxyethanol
CI 77891
CI 77491
Water, Methyl Trimethicone, Propanediol, Isododecane, Polyethylene, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Nylon-12, Isononyl Isononanoate, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Hibiscus Sinensis Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Whey Protein, Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Squalane, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Algae Extract, Limonium Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Caffeine, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Glucose, Magnesium Sulfate, Sucrose, Glycerin, Pinanediol, Camphanediol, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Boron Nitride, Maltodextrin, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Methicone, Artemia Extract, Polysilicone-11, Alumina, Isoceteth-20, Disteardimonium Hectorite, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Citric Acid, Octadecene, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891, CI 77491
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Esters
Cetyl Alcohol
Polybutene
Isostearyl Neopentanoate
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Polygonum Aviculare Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Linoleic Acid
Persea Gratissima Oil
Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl
Cholesterol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Sorbitol
Trehalose
Lauryl PCA
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Carbomer
1,2-Hexanediol
Faex Extract
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Zinc PCA
Sodium PCA
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Lactate
Potassium Sulfate
PEG-8
Sodium Benzoate
Polysorbate 20
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Mica
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Polybutene, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Polyethylene, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Algae Extract, Linoleic Acid, Persea Gratissima Oil, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Cholesterol, Caffeine, Glucose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Artemia Extract, Sorbitol, Trehalose, Lauryl PCA, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Carbomer, Whey Protein, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Faex Extract, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Zinc PCA, Sodium PCA, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Sulfate, PEG-8, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Glucosamine is an antioxidant and humectant. It is an amino acid sugar and is naturally found in our skin.
The cool thing about this ingredient? It helps the skin produce hyaluronic acid and boost hydration. It also has antioxidant benefits to protect skin cells.
When paired with niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine has been shown to be effective at reducing discoloration.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Algae Extract is a confusing name. This is because algae is an informal term for a group of 30,000 aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize.
The term 'algae extract' can refer to any one, or a blend of, the 30,000 types.
Algae is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Algae can also help with soothing and hydrating skin.
Many different types of algae have different benefits.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP) is a form of Vitamin C. AAP was made as a more stable alternative to Ascorbic Acid by combining Ascorbic Acid (pure Vitamin C) with 3-aminoproply dehydrogen phosphate.
As a type of Vitamin C, it has antioxidant properties. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin cells.
AAP has been shown to help reduce signs of hyperigmentation and age-spots.
AAP is water soluble.
Vitamin C can help to reduce redness, improve skin texture, reduce the effects of aging, and reduce the visibility of dark spots.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
We don't have a description for Artemia Extract yet.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Laminaria Digitata Extract comes from the big brown seaweed (or kelp) that grows in the North Atlantic. In skincare, it's mostly used as a skin protectant and conditioning agent.
The most interesting stuff inside is mostly just sugars and minerals: fucoidan (a sulfated polysaccharide), laminarin (a beta-glucan), alginates, and phlorotannins (seaweed polyphenols).
Any antioxidant and soothing claims mostly come from those polysaccharides; crude laminarin and fucoidan from Laminaria digitata do show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in lab assays.
Just know that the lab assays are test-tube work on isolated compounds and not clinical trials on the finished extract.
Realistically, this ingredient is a nice-feeling and hydrating skin conditioner (not really an active).
Safety-wise, it's one of the better documented seaweeds and safe to be used in cosmetics according to the CIR Expert Panel.
Industry surveys find that usage concentrations run can be found up to 5% in bubble baths and leave-on usage is more likely 0.1-3%.
The risk of allergy is also quite low as human repeat insult patch tests (under 5% and blends containing 8-12%) came back non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Rabbit studies came back negative too, though one trade mixture at 1.5-2.5% in water + propylene glycol did cause moderate irritation at 30 minutes.
Reported seaweed allergies in the literature are almost all occupational (people handling wet kelp) or from a totally unrelated blue/green alga.
At this time, there's actually no published comedogenicity test on it and the evidence that does exist points away from clogging.
Laminaria Digitata Extract has never been run through the rabbit ear assay or the Mills & Kligman human model and it isn't in Fulton's 1989 list of tested comedogenic ratings.
The CIR's brown algae review pulled every published and unpublished study industry had on 82 seaweed ingredients and found no comedogenicity data for any of them.
So any number you see online was assigned by a person and not actually measured.
In 2012, Capitanio et al. ran an 8-week double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial in 60 people with mild acne using a Laminaria digitata-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone.
They found comedones, papules and pustules dropped significantly more in the active group than the vehicle group at 2, 4 and 8 weeks.
Caveats for this study: a Laminaria digitata-derived oligosaccharide is just fraction and not the plain extract, and the zinc is likely doing real work. Still, the study found comedones went down in acne-prone skin.
This fits mechanistically. Comedogenesis is largely a lipid story and this is water-soluble polysaccharides, minerals, and polyphenols. There's nothing really to plug a follicle with.
The real caveat is the carrier: some supplier versions come dispersed in caprylic/capric triglycerides.
The 0-5 scale comes from applying ingredients to the inside of an albino rabbit's ear. Rabbit follicles are far more reactive than human ones so it over-predicts. Even petrolatum was reassigned as non-comedogenic by the original scientist, Kligman.
Here are three more problems of comedogenic ratings:
Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract can cause irritation.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
We don't have a description for Whey Protein yet.