Skin science article
Etude House Soon Jung Hydro Barrier Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration
Etude House Soon Jung Hydro Barrier Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Madecassoside to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This calming moisturizer is
Etude House Soon Jung Hydro Barrier Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Madecassoside to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Colloidal Oatmeal and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Panthenol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
1,2-Hexanediol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Trehalose
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
C14-22 Alcohols
Arachidyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Behenyl Alcohol
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Ethylhexylglycerin
Arachidyl Glucoside
Butylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Sorbitan Isostearate
Allantoin
Madecassoside
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Glucose
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Tocopherol
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Panthenol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), 1,2-Hexanediol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Trehalose, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C14-22 Alcohols, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Behenyl Alcohol, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Arachidyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Allantoin, Madecassoside, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Glucose, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol
Colloidal Oatmeal 0.5%
Stearic Acid
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Squalane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Hydroxide
Tetrasodium EDTA
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Ceramide NP
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Colloidal Oatmeal 0.5%, Water, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!