Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Eveline Perfection C 20 % Vitamin C Serum Versus IMAGE skincare The Max Serum

Eveline Perfection C 20 % Vitamin C Serum Versus IMAGE skincare The Max Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formulate

Eveline Perfection C 20 % Vitamin C Serum Versus IMAGE skincare The Max Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propylene Glycol

Ascorbic Acid

Glycerin

Propanediol

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Water

Acacia Seyal Gum Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Collagen Amino Acids

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Ferulic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Parfum

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Sodium Hydroxide

Xanthan Gum

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene Glycol

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Polydextrose

1,2-Hexanediol

Citric Acid

Carbomer

Sodium Lactate

Polysorbate 20

Benzyl Salicylate

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Propylene Glycol, Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Propanediol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Water, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Collagen Amino Acids, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ferulic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Polydextrose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Linalool

Sucrose Palmitate

Glyceryl Linoleate

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Pullulan

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Isomalt

Centella Asiatica Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Pvp

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture

Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Lecithin

Glycine Soja Protein

Superoxide Dismutase

PEG-8

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract

Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract

Plankton Extract

Citral

Sodium Dextran Sulfate

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Biotin

Water, Carbomer, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Sucrose Palmitate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Limonene, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Butylene Glycol, Pullulan, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Isomalt, Propylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Pvp, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Lactate, Lecithin, Glycine Soja Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Superoxide Dismutase, PEG-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract, Plankton Extract, Citral, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Biotin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.

It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.

According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Image Skincare Clear Cell Salicylic Clarifying TonicIngredients explained

  1. 01It's one of the gold standard ingredients for treating problem skin
  2. 02It can exfoliate skin both on the surface and in the pores
  3. 03It's a potent anti-inflammatory agent
  4. 04It's more effective for treating blackheads than acne
  5. 05For acne combine it with antibacterial agents like benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid
  6. 06Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  7. 07It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  8. 08Expand to read more
  9. 09Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  10. 10One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  11. 11A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  12. 12A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  13. 13Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  14. 14Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  15. 15High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
  16. 16We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
  17. 17The distillate created from the leaves of the hazelnut-bush-like-magic-tree commonly called Witch Hazel. The distillate from the leaves is probably the gentlest, most diluted version of any kind of With Hazel ingredient.
  18. 18The leaves contain much, much less active components than the bark (4.77% vs 0.04% tannins) and distillates are more diluted than extracts. So this one is probably just a "fancy-water" that resembles the properties of Witch Hazel Extract (astringent…
  19. 19We have gone into much more details about Witch Hazel here.
  20. 20The extract coming from the Indian Frankincense, a medium-sized tree native to India. Mostly the gum-resin is used that is obtained from an incision made on the trunk of the tree. It contains about 30-60% resin, 5-10% fragrant essential oil, and the…
Source · incidecoder.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side