Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Eveline Serum Shot Multi Peptides Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum

Eveline Serum Shot Multi Peptides Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ceramide NP and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum is formulated aro

Eveline Serum Shot Multi Peptides Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ceramide NP and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Propanediol

Tripelargonin

Betaine

Sea Water

Pullulan

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Gardenia Jasminoides Meristem Cell Culture

Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Carnosine

Collagen

Tocopheryl Acetate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Serine

Alanine

Glycine

Lactobacillus

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Glutamic Acid

Ceramide Ng

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Lysine Hcl

Threonine

Heptapeptide-7

Lecithin

Acetyl Hexapeptide-49

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Arginine

Tetrapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Oligopeptide-68

Acetyl Heptapeptide-4

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Proline

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Dextran

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Lauryl Glucoside

Sodium PCA

Glycine Soja Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Pentaerythrityl Distearate

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Phenoxyethanol

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Lactate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Sodium Carbomer

Hydroxyacetophenone

Xanthan Gum

Butylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Citric Acid

Carbomer

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Maltodextrin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polysorbate 20

PCA

Caprylyl Glycol

Tribehenin

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Lactic Acid

Sodium Oleate

Parfum

CI 17200

CI 19140

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Propanediol, Tripelargonin, Betaine, Sea Water, Pullulan, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Gardenia Jasminoides Meristem Cell Culture, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carnosine, Collagen, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Lactobacillus, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Glutamic Acid, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Heptapeptide-7, Lecithin, Acetyl Hexapeptide-49, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Arginine, Tetrapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-68, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Proline, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Dextran, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium PCA, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sodium Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Maltodextrin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, PCA, Caprylyl Glycol, Tribehenin, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid, Sodium Oleate, Parfum, CI 17200, CI 19140

Dipropylene Glycol

Isopropyl Myristate

Glycereth-26

Niacinamide

1,2-Hexanediol

Sodium DNA

Polyglycerin-3

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polyisobutene

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Milt Extract

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Adenosine

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Sorbitan Oleate

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Cyanocobalamin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Ubiquinone

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Copper Tripeptide-1

Salmon Egg Extract

Atelocollagen

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium DNA, Butylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Milt Extract, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ubiquinone, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Salmon Egg Extract, Atelocollagen

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

02

Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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