Evolve Organic Beauty Multi Peptide 360 Anti-Ageing Cream Versus This Works Deep Sleep Overnight Cream

Evolve Organic Beauty Multi Peptide 360 Anti-Ageing Cream Versus This Works Deep Sleep Overnight Cream

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isoamyl Laurate

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Sodium Levulinate

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil Expressed

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Cetearyl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Cellulose Gum

Sodium Anisate

Tocopherol

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Benzoate

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isoamyl Laurate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Sodium Levulinate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil Expressed, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Anisate, Tocopherol, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate, Limonene, Linalool

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Cetearyl Olivate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Fructooligosaccharides

Sorbitan Olivate

Beta Vulgaris Root Extract

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Polyacrylate

Copper PCA

Carbomer

Potassium Lactate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Lactic Acid

Parfum

Ceramide NP

Phenoxyethanol

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Wood Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil

Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Oil

Sodium Hydroxide

Ceramide EOP

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Fructooligosaccharides, Sorbitan Olivate, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Copper PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Potassium Lactate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Lactic Acid, Parfum, Linalool, Ceramide NP, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Wood Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Oil, Tocopherol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ceramide EOP

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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