Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Farmacy Dew It All Total Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry

Farmacy Dew It All Total Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry This eye moisturizer is formulated around Gluconolactone to brighten and support scar healing. This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around

Farmacy Dew It All Total Eye Cream Versus Farmacy Cheer Up Brightening Vitamin C Eye Cream with Acerola Cherry

This eye moisturizer is formulated around Gluconolactone to brighten and support scar healing.

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Caffeine to fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Jojoba Esters

Copernicia Cerifera Wax

Cetyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Echinacea Purpurea Root Extract

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Glyceryl Stearate

Undecane

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Gluconolactone

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Tridecane

Arachidyl Alcohol

Ribose

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Xanthan Gum

Potassium Sorbate

Behenyl Alcohol

Strelitzia Nicolai Seed Aril Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Cetearyl Glucoside

Arachidyl Glucoside

Sodium Hydroxide

Allantoin

Gellan Gum

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Phytate

Cellulose Gum

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Benzyl Alcohol

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract

Amino Esters-1

Calcium Gluconate

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Solanum Muricatum Fruit Extract

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Algae Extract

Salicylic Acid

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Tocopherol

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Lawsonia Inermis Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Extract

Pearl Powder

Sorbic Acid

Lactic Acid

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Glycolate

Water, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Esters, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Echinacea Purpurea Root Extract, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Undecane, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Gluconolactone, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Tridecane, Arachidyl Alcohol, Ribose, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Behenyl Alcohol, Strelitzia Nicolai Seed Aril Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, Allantoin, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cellulose Gum, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Amino Esters-1, Calcium Gluconate, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Muricatum Fruit Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Algae Extract, Salicylic Acid, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Lawsonia Inermis Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Extract, Pearl Powder, Sorbic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Glycolate

Diisostearyl Malate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Pentylene Glycol

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Phytosterols

3-Glyceryl Ascorbate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract

Caffeine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Bisabolol

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Physalis Angulata Extract

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Hexamidine Diisethionate

Melia Azadirachta Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Hydroxide

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Butylene Glycol

Citric Acid

Water, Diisostearyl Malate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Phytosterols, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Bisabolol, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Physalis Angulata Extract, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Tocopherol, Hexamidine Diisethionate, Sodium Phytate, Melia Azadirachta Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
  4. 04This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
  5. 05On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
  6. 06One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too st…
  7. 07Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
  8. 08You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
  9. 09Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  10. 10Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  11. 11Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  12. 12Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  13. 13This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  14. 14Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  15. 15Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  16. 16Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  17. 17It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  18. 18On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  19. 19Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  20. 20You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Face facts Vitamin C Eye Cream

Face facts Vitamin C Eye Cream Face facts Vitamin C Eye Cream ingredients explained: Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Steareth-20, Sodium Ascorbyl P…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

DOSE by VH Vitamin C Eye Cream

DOSE by VH Vitamin C Eye Cream DOSE by VH Vitamin C Eye Cream ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Propanediol, Glycerin, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Prun…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side