Skin science article
Filorga NCEF-Intensive Supreme Multi-Correction Serum Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
Filorga NCEF-Intensive Supreme Multi-Correction Serum Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment This anti-aging serum is formulated around Gluconolactone and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging treatment is form
Filorga NCEF-Intensive Supreme Multi-Correction Serum Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Gluconolactone and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
C10-18 Triglycerides
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Heptyl Undecylenate
Glycerin
Propanediol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Maltodextrin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Arginine PCA
Cetyl Alcohol
Gluconolactone
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters
Mannitol
Parfum
Sucrose Dilaurate
Maris Aqua
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Tribehenin
Sucrose Palmitate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylyl Glycol
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Tocopherol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Lecithin
Lysolecithin
Glyceryl Linoleate
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Pisum Sativum Extract
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Chloride
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
CI 77891
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Trihydroxystearin
Niacinamide
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Lactobacillus Ferment
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Sodium Phytate
Ceramide NP
Sodium Hyaluronate
1,2-Hexanediol
Glucose
Phenoxyethanol
Bisabolol
Potassium Chloride
Beta-Sitosterol
Phytic Acid
Squalene
Potassium Sorbate
Calcium Chloride
Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Magnesium Sulfate
Glutamine
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Tin Oxide
CI 19140
Sodium Phosphate
Ascorbic Acid
Sodium Acetate
Lysine Hcl
Arginine Hcl
Alanine
CI 17200
Histidine Hcl
Valine
Leucine
Threonine
Isoleucine
Tryptophan
Phenylalanine
Tyrosine
Glycine
Polysorbate 80
Glucomannan
Serine
Cystine
Cyanocobalamin
Glutathione
Asparagine
Aspartic Acid
Ornithine Hcl
Glutamic Acid
Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Proline
Methionine
Taurine
Hydroxyproline
Glucosamine Hcl
Coenzyme A
Sodium Glucuronate
Thiamine Diphosphate
Retinyl Acetate
Inositol
Niacin
Pyridoxine Hcl
Biotin
Calcium Pantothenate
Riboflavin
Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
Thiamine Hcl
Folic Acid
Water, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Heptyl Undecylenate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Maltodextrin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Arginine PCA, Cetyl Alcohol, Gluconolactone, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Mannitol, Parfum, Sucrose Dilaurate, Maris Aqua, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tribehenin, Sucrose Palmitate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lecithin, Lysolecithin, Glyceryl Linoleate, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Pisum Sativum Extract, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Chloride, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, CI 77891, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Trihydroxystearin, Niacinamide, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Sodium Phytate, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glucose, Phenoxyethanol, Bisabolol, Potassium Chloride, Beta-Sitosterol, Phytic Acid, Squalene, Potassium Sorbate, Calcium Chloride, Sophora Japonica Flower Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Magnesium Sulfate, Glutamine, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Tin Oxide, CI 19140, Sodium Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Acetate, Lysine Hcl, Arginine Hcl, Alanine, CI 17200, Histidine Hcl, Valine, Leucine, Threonine, Isoleucine, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Glycine, Polysorbate 80, Glucomannan, Serine, Cystine, Cyanocobalamin, Glutathione, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Ornithine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Proline, Methionine, Taurine, Hydroxyproline, Glucosamine Hcl, Coenzyme A, Sodium Glucuronate, Thiamine Diphosphate, Retinyl Acetate, Inositol, Niacin, Pyridoxine Hcl, Biotin, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Thiamine Hcl, Folic Acid
Dimethicone
Isononyl Isononanoate
Castor Isostearate Succinate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
PEG-33
Polysorbate 20
Behenyl Alcohol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Retinol
Ceramide Ng
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Arctium Lappa Seed Oil
Salix Alba Extract
Glycine Soja Sterols
Allantoin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Sorbitan Laurate
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Disodium EDTA
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ethylhexylglycerin
Pentylene Glycol
PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
PEG-10 Phytosterol
PEG-8 Dimethicone
PEG-14
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Arachidyl Glucoside
Arachidyl Alcohol
Sclerotium Gum
Carbomer
Benzoic Acid
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-33, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Salix Alba Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sorbitan Laurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Tribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!