Skin science article
Filorga Optim-Eyes Versus Medik8 Eyelift Peptides
Filorga Optim-Eyes Versus Medik8 Eyelift Peptides This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone and Dipeptide-2 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated arou
Filorga Optim-Eyes Versus Medik8 Eyelift Peptides
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone and Dipeptide-2 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C12-16 Alcohols
Cyclopentasiloxane
PEG-8
Polyacrylate-13
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Palmitic Acid
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Polyisobutene
Cyclohexasiloxane
Sucrose Palmitate
Parfum
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Steareth-20
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Tetrasodium EDTA
Glyceryl Linoleate
Polysorbate 20
Tromethamine
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Polyacrylate
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
Glucose
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
N-Hydroxysuccinimide
Potassium Chloride
Dipeptide-2
Calcium Chloride
Magnesium Sulfate
Glutamine
Sodium Phosphate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ascorbic Acid
Sodium Acetate
Tocopherol
Lysine Hcl
Arginine
Alanine
Histidine
Valine
Chrysin
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Leucine
Threonine
Isoleucine
Tryptophan
Phenylalanine
Tyrosine
Glycine
Polysorbate 80
Serine
2'-Deoxyadenosine
Cystine
Cyanocobalamin
Deoxycytidine
Deoxyguanosine
Thymidine
Glutathione
Asparagine
Aspartic Acid
Ornithine
Glutamic Acid
Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Proline
Aminobutyric Acid
Methionine
Taurine
Hydroxyproline
Glucosamine
Coenzyme A
Glucuronolactone
Sodium Glucuronate
Thiamine Diphosphate
Disodium Flavine Adenine Dinucleotide
Sodium Trimetaphosphate
Retinyl Acetate
Inositol
Niacin
Niacinamide
Pyridoxal 5-Phosphate
Pyridoxine
Biotin
Calcium Pantothenate
Folic Acid
Riboflavin
Tocopheryl Phosphate
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-16 Alcohols, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG-8, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Polyisobutene, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sucrose Palmitate, Parfum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Steareth-20, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Tetrasodium EDTA, Glyceryl Linoleate, Polysorbate 20, Tromethamine, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Polyacrylate, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Glucose, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Potassium Chloride, Dipeptide-2, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium Sulfate, Glutamine, Sodium Phosphate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Acetate, Tocopherol, Lysine Hcl, Arginine, Alanine, Histidine, Valine, Chrysin, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Leucine, Threonine, Isoleucine, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Glycine, Polysorbate 80, Serine, 2'-Deoxyadenosine, Cystine, Cyanocobalamin, Deoxycytidine, Deoxyguanosine, Thymidine, Glutathione, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Ornithine, Glutamic Acid, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Proline, Aminobutyric Acid, Methionine, Taurine, Hydroxyproline, Glucosamine, Coenzyme A, Glucuronolactone, Sodium Glucuronate, Thiamine Diphosphate, Disodium Flavine Adenine Dinucleotide, Sodium Trimetaphosphate, Retinyl Acetate, Inositol, Niacin, Niacinamide, Pyridoxal 5-Phosphate, Pyridoxine, Biotin, Calcium Pantothenate, Folic Acid, Riboflavin, Tocopheryl Phosphate
Alcohol Denat.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Xanthan Gum
Tribehenin
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Benzyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Ceramide Ng
PEG-10 Phytosterol
Dehydroacetic Acid
Glycine Soja Protein
Sodium Benzoate
Superoxide Dismutase
Benzoic Acid
Sorbic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Carbomer
Sodium Dextran Sulfate
Water, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Tribehenin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Steareth-20, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Ceramide Ng, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Glycine Soja Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Superoxide Dismutase, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Chrysin, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polysorbate 20, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Tocopherol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Chlorhexidine Digluconate is a preservative.
We don't have a description for Chrysin yet.
Dipeptide-2 is a peptide. It can help to reduce the effects of aging.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone (HMC) is a modified form of hesperidin, a citrus flavonoid. It has antioxidant properties.
In preclinical research, HMC has been studied for its ability to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation related to UVB exposure. Outside of cosmetics, HMC has been looked at for its effects on capillary leakage and swelling. This is why you'll often see this ingredient in eye creams.
Overall, HMC is a gentle and supportive ingredient. Further research is needed on the claims that this ingredient can "erase dark circles".
We don't have a description for N-Hydroxysuccinimide yet.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Steareth-20 is an emulsifier and solubilizer. It is created from stearyl alcohol with ~20 units of ethylene oxide to give it a strong preference for water.
As an emulsifier, it helps oil-in-water emulsions like lotions, creams, and cleansers stay stable. It also solubilizes small amounts of oil-loving ingredients (like fragrance) into water-based formulas.
You'll likely find this ingredient with steareth-2 (it's oil-loving sister) where the two work together to give products a cushiony feel.
Typical use levels sit at around 1-5% and this ingredient has been found to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!